Local time: 27 April, 17:45
Location: Camp 2
Altitude: 6500m
Weather: Cloudy and light snow for much of the day. -8C overnight.
Hi it’s Paul coming to you from camp 2. We took a walk out to the bottom of the Lhotse face this morning, and because of the fresh snow we roped up in case there were any concealed crevasses. Along the way we met some British climbers coming down from spending a night at C3 and it turns out that their friend is Cassra who is trekking in with Fiona. It’s a small world.
Recovering the dead Sherpa
We met a large group of Sherpas going up to the avalanche site to recover the body of the Sherpa that died yesterday. We offered to help, but they said they had enough people. About 3 hours later we saw them dragging the body on a sled back through camp 2.
About Camp 2
Our camp 2 is situated on the rocky lateral moraine of the Khumbu glacier. Lateral moraine is moraine (rocks and stones) on the edge of the glacier. If you look at the picture of camp 2 our camp is on the rocky ridge. The green tent is the cooking tent and the dark tent to the left is the dining tent. The orange tents the right are our sleeping tents. Attilla and my tent is the third one along on the ridge. It’s very rocky and uneven, so you need to be careful when you walk around.
The icefall doctors
Mira asked for more information about the icefall doctors. The icefall doctors are a group of about 6 sherpas who setup the route from base camp to camp 2. They put in all the ladders and fixed line, plus go up it every day to check that everything is in good order. It’s run by the SPCC (search site for more info), and a fee is charged per climber to use the route. A profit is made on this service, which goes towards the cleaning activities of the SPCC. I am not happy with the icefall route this season, as in my opinion it’s unnecessarily dangerous. For example there is no need to go under the snow bridge, when a route could be made around it. Apparently there was a big collapse last night (no one hurt), so we’ll see what it looks like tomorrow.
It’s an early start for us tomorrow so we can leave at 5am to descend to BC.
Your Messages
Hi MC, There are not many crevasses in the icefall – the main ones are above the icefall to c1 and c2. I don’t know if other people are commenting on the icefall, but the route certainly puts climbers in more danger than last year.
Tom G, Steve is a bit out of sync with me now, and has been in bc for the last 2 days. I’ll pass your message on when our paths cross next..
Regards,
Paul.
Paul
I hope you’re well and in good spirits. Your last two posts have driven home the reality of climbing Everest and the risks involved. I read yesterday’s post from the comforts of a warm bed and was saddened to read of the tragic death of the sherpa on the Lhotse face. Please climb safely and use good judgment.
There have been no reports on the icefall route by other climbers on the inherent risks of the route chosen other than its good to get through quickly. You would have the advantage of having been through last year so you can make immediate comparisons. I also would question why the icefall doctors would take a route under a snow bridge when there was a safer alternative route. From what I understand about the icefall, there are 40ft ice blocks that can fall at anytime. Is there a forum to give feedback to the icefall doctors? I can imagine they are (understandably) very proud people.
Paul, your pictures that accompany your posts have been brilliant and really take us on the journey with you. I was surprised by the layout of camp 2 and the size of the dining and cooking tents. Do you meet as a group in the dining tent in between meals to talk or play cards, or is it strictly dining?
Anyway, have a good descent tomorrow to bc and hope the icefall route is in better shape.
Cam
Dear Paul,
Thank you for some background info about icefall doctors!:)
Howevery you mentioned earlier you cannot communicate directly with Pat and he cannot see the messages which posted to you on the web but it seems he can read our mind!;) Today he also wrote about icefall docs due to he was stopped by them and cannot go through Khumbu as he bumped into a bunch of docs who were affixing new ladders as the route was changed. He saw a crew had aluminium ladders strapped to their back and were on their way to make repairs!
I have to say this is a magic website;) A big honour that both of you answered me for this question (Pat even without asking;) This gaves me more complex picture and deeper understanding of how is the life up there. Thx for the hint about SPCC – checking out them on internet – I am sort of fundraising type and also sustainable development is part of my profession, so I found quite interesting how this kind of business is used for running a sustainable tourism in Himalayan area.
Say hello to Attila and let him know he has caught so many attention for the climbing and active lifestyle here, in Hungary. Maybe it wasn’t his intention but it is happening: people got inspired and are getting out of their comfy chair:)
Keep up with your good spirit and have a safe climb down the Icafall
All the best, Mira
Wow, I never knew Camp II was so rocky. I always thought the tents there were pitched on snow. Do your sleeping pads keep you comfortable on the rocks? I know the Sherpas try to level the ground for tents, but isn’t it awfully uneven?
I hope the icefall route is better now, after the collapse. Best of luck to you.
Shanda
There is an excellent article about the Ice Doctors of Khumba with photographs in the May 2007 edition of “Men’s Journal.” You just mentioned the doctors in the post of April 27.
– Steve Brown (Olympia, Washington U.S.A.)
Hi Paul
Alan Arnette quoted IMG on Thurs. the 26th:
“Today at BC there is a meeting with the SPCC representative and the leaders from many of the teams, with the goal to try to get SPCC (the organization responsible for the icefall route) to commit to hiring more Icefall Doctors, to improve the route. SPCC has collected a LOT of money form the various expeditions teams (IMG alone paid $8400 in icefall fees), and the teams want to see the money spent on the route maintenance!!”
I am hoping this issue will be resolved as it is a matter of life and death. There must be so much pressure on the Icefall doctors themselves; they are in my thoughts also. It seems the SPCC needs to hire more Icefall doctors; bottom line.
Stay safe,
MC
p.s. Great photos of C-2!
Paul
We read your reports daily and think of you often. How sad we were to read of the Sherpa- and our thoughts are with you all. Please take care……
Your descriptions and photos are awesome….you have so many fans back here even if they are not writing to you they are following it all.
As I write this the girls will be on their way to Lukla-what excitement await them! Spoke to Neil this morning to invite him for dinner tonight but he is already going out…we will have to make a booking by the sound of it.
lots of love
be careful
Dad and Mare
Hi Paul,
Sounds as if the “doctors” have chosen a risky route through the icefall. I hope that the changes in the ice over the next few days make it better for everyone, and as always safer.
How are the crevasses across the Western Cwm this year?
Ann and Graham
Hi Paul,
I’m greatly enjoying your regular updates. It is clear that you routinely have to get up very early in the morning to prepare for the day ahead. Does everyone on the mountain retire early in the evening to ensure adequate sleep or is proper sleep impossible and you just accept that you’ll be sleep deprived during the climb and cope as best you can?
Good luck for the rest of your ascent and stay as healthy as possible.
Craig Bryant, Melbourne.