Location: Lobuche
Altitude: 4900 metres
Weather: Mainly fine
Hi everyone,
Fiona here – coming to you from Lobuche. Very pleased to say that we’re not too far from basecamp now, but unfortunately the day has not been without it’s struggles.
Leaving Dingboche
We woke this morning, both Denise and I feeling much better. Our respective stomach upsets seem to have settled down and we were feeling ready for the day ahead. Our guide mentioned that he had some stomach pain in the night but assured us he was fine to continue. We ate breakfast and Denise walked out of the dining room and was very surprised to be head-to-head with a large Zopyko (Yak crossed with a cow) who was trying to get inside for a feed as well. We found out that it was 19 years old and no longer carrying loads but well cared for by the family. After getting over this shock and getting ready, we headed off soon after 8am.
Along the High Ridge to Dukla
Today’s walk was one of our biggest days and we were all keen to get it underway. The very first part was quite a steep ascent and then flattened out to be a beautiful walk along a high ridge. We all felt quite good and stopped to take photographs. We loved seeing the summer huts used to graze yaks – similar to the cattleman’s huts in the Australian high plains. We dipped down to cross the river and then found ourselves at Dukla – a tiny town consisting of just two buildings. We stopped for a snack of tea and toast – we were almost estastic to find jam that seemed fresh and tasted nice (its amazing how small luxuries can satisfy us now!).
Our two guides went inside while we enjoyed the sun outside. After a good rest, we went to find them and discovered that Ang Nima was not feeling well at all. It seems that his stomach problem had worsened and he was feverish and shakey on his feet. Coincidentally, there were a group of British doctors also taking a break there and one of them checked Ang Nima over. He administered some medication and advised that he should go down to the clinic in Pheriche. We made arrangements for one of our porters to take him down and have since heard (on the porter message wire) that the doctors have sent him back to his hometown of Khumjung for at least 3 days of rest. Although its a little unclear, it seems as though he had a stomach bug prior to starting our trek and might not have fully kicked it. We’re all concerned for him now as we know how bad he’ll be feeling about leaving us – despite our reassurances that he should take as much time as he needs to get better. We were also concerned that he might not get paid, but have since been assured that he will be. Ang Nima has been a fantastic guide for us and is one of the most genuine people you could ever meet.
Continuing up to Lobuche
Pemba rearranged our bags and we all continued up the steep hill to Lobuche. Everyone did exceptionally well and our slow, steady pace paid off. At the top we took a break at the Everest memorials where we wandered around and pondered them in the silence of our own worlds.
The last hour or so was quite flat and we passed the first drifts of snow. By now the landscape was just rock as we walk alongside the rubble of the Khumbu Glacier. As we walked along, a man approached us saying, “Six women and one man? You must be Australian!”. It turned out it was Rudi – one of the climbers in the Asian Trekking team. He was headed down to Deboche for some lower altitude and rest before his no-oxygen summit bid. We had a brief chat, shook hands, and continued in our respective directions.
Finally, Lobuche
It was a long climb so most of us were pretty happy when we finally spotted the 5 or so buildings that make up Lobuche. We piled inside for tea and some lunch. But by the time we finished lunch, Denise was again not feeling so good and soon after, Mum had the same problem. The heat of the lodge in contrast with the cold outside, as well as the 600 meter elevation gain, made a few of us feel a bit light-headed as well. We all took to our rooms and got some rest. Again, the doctor that had seen Ang Nima down at Dukla was here so he saw Denise and both she and Mum are now on antibiotics which should clear things up soon. As I write this, they’re both up and have had a light soup for dinner, already feeling slightly better. Tomorrow we have nothing planned but rest, so it will be a good chance for them to recover.
Your Messages
Thanks everyone for your messages wishing Denise and I well. Seems to have worked for me, but Denise may need some more.
To Dad, Jacqueline, Leah and Nana – thanks for your messages from Mum and I. We hope everything is going well back home with you all. Mum was happy to hear about the TV and the rock wall starting. Hope Leah’s move is progressing well.
Marg also says hi to all her friends including all the PVICT and AMES staff.
Ann & Graham – we are all going to the toilet much more than usual. Unfortunately its a part of life up here. But its a good sign that your kidneys have kicked into action. Not much we can do about it except keep an eye out for big rocks (the trees have finished now!).
We’ll have more time and energy tomorrow, so till then…
Fiona
Hi Daddy, how are you? Did the cow scare you when it suddenly walked in? Have you had your favourite dahl dinner tonight and will you make it for us when you get back home to London? A lady on the messages says she has the recipe for you?
I played football in the garden with Geoff’s son Adam, today and it was really fun. I’ve invited him to my party.
Finally the football score was 1-1 Chelsea vs Arsenal. Essien scored and Belarouze was sent off. Uncle Mauro was very upset.
This is from Stefano to Cassra.
Hi Y’all,
Great news Paul with you proceeding on to camp three. And Mum, you’ll be happy to hear that Mark is going to BG this week and IT’S STARTING, finally. But now it’s your turn to receive some wishes of good health, I hope the AB’s do the job for you and Denise. Julia doesn’t seem to have been unwell so perhaps you need to eat like she does?? Leah’s house plans are moving along well, with us both going light-fitting shopping yesterday so it’s getting exciting for her. Anyway not much going on with me except same old, so rest up, get well (or stay well for those that are already). With my thoughts and wishes, Jacqueline x
Thank you for another delightful insight message into the hill life of Nepal. The image of the Zopyko is a delightful change of imagery and says so much about the compassionate people who reside there, excellent photo…And the informative descriptive narrative of a morning and day on the trail. How cold is the stream water which you have crossed? OK quick submersion/ rinse and dry in the warmth of some sunshine. A guidebook to Nepal which I am reading suggests bringing a bathing suit for such situations and wondering how realistic is that possibility given the water temperatures, currents, rockiness, etc. Hope that the digestive upsets subside soon for all those experiencing those travel bugs and that Ang Nima recovers and is able to rejoin your delightfully sounding group. Other excellent images of group image at rock outcrop and stone building…Hope that you all are getting plenty of rest, good food, water and continued beautiful weather…look forward to the next informative dispatch…
Cheers,
wp
Hi Denise, I hope your are feeling better. I think my next news will help you feel better. The Hawks beat the Bombers and it was the Buddy show. He kick 9 goals and beat Fletcher, Michaels and McPhee. Adrian is still gloating over the win.
I am enjoying reading the progress of the trip and hope Ang Nima is feeling better. The photos are amazing and capture the experiences you describe in your posts.
Hi Fiona and family,
We loved the long and descriptive post! Thanks for that. We hope that you are all feeling much better and that the proximity to BC has excited everyone to move on up! Thanks for answering my question about liquids and the resulting problems! I suppose I will deal with that problem just like everyone else!Wonderful photos!
Ann and Graham
We are sorry that some of you got sick. Medications that you are taking and the rest should help you to get better and come to BC in a good shape. We wish you to get there and meet Paul in a good health for everybody. If you all have courage to sign up for that trip, this obstacle you should be able to overcome.
We admire you Fiona, Fiona’s Mom, Beck and Julia and the rest of the crew.
Get safely to the BC.
Looking forward for your next update.
Tamara and Boris.
HI denise
good news from doctor psa is down from 2700 to 46 will have to put up with the hot flushes stop feeling a lot better stop hope your troubles are over stop keep enjoying the trip love dad
Hi Denise,
Sorry you haven’t been feeling well. Hope you and Marg are feeling much better now along with the rest of the gang. Having a great time over here as always catching up with the family. Carmel came down yesterday and Carly is back from Noosa so was able to catch with her and Nick also. Their house is looking great isn’t it. Yesterday we took Mum out and all had lunch at the Mulgrave Club. Today Dad and I are having lunch with the Collingwood gang at the Shoppingtown Hotel in Doncaster. Tonight Anne and Yvonne are coming for dinner. Flying home tomorrow afternoon. Collingwood had another good win on the weekend over Adelaide in Adelaide. Will send another message when I am back at work on Wednesday.
Love,
Anne
Hi Denise
Hope you like Dad’s morse code message with the stops. He and Anne were here after his drs visit. Good news !!
Sorry to hear that you and Marg are not great but I am sure the two of you will be feeling better after a days rest and antibiotics. The group photo is great and the back drop is sensational. Mum is enjoying following your trip from the photos and email. Happy trekking
Love Maureen
Dear All,
Not many more steps now -I wonder will you be pleased or sad to finish the treck at BC? Pleased with your achievement, but a bit sad that all the discovery , new scenes , hard days are behind you ? I ‘m sure you’ll all stay friends with such wonderful shared experiences. The group photo says it all, what an amazing backdrop. Hope that you are recovering now Marg and Denise-almost to the goal , so that in itself will make you feel stronger. Neil and Bruce and Barb and I enjoyed John’s twilight concert -Marg , you should see him dance -he’s like a bald John Travolta!!
Back to our place for a candlelight supper -Barb and Neil said that Bruce had spoiled their newfound “two-some”-they were getting used to being a couple . Bruce said that is WHY he came home and I immediately rushed to the computer to recall you, however I realized that Neil wouldn’t remember how a courtship goes , so you are all safe.
Going to Merimbula with Laings Thursday to Sunday.
Take care , you are constantly in our thoughts,
Sandy and John
So glad you are feeling better, Fiona. I hope your Mum and Denise will be better soon. I am sorry to hear that Ang Nima is sick also. It seems it is difficult to stay healthy in this region. Hopefully Ang Nima will feel better at lower elevation.
Well, enjoy the remaining trek to BC. You must be anxious to see Paul!
Best regards,
MC
Hi all,
Congratulations for making it to Lobuche – you are getting some altitude now!!
Sorry to hear you are not feeling well Denise and Marg – hope you start to feel better soon. Not far to go now and you will be at EBC! Thinking of you all, love Dame and Beck
P.S Keep us updated as to what happens with your guide Ang Nima.
hehehehehehehehhehe … I couldn’t stop laughing when I read that!
I sent you a message earlier but can’t find it so maybe it didn’t work. I just want you to know that you are awesome!! What you are doing is so unreal. It has been upsetting to hear that you have not been well but I know you and I know that it takes a lot more than not feeling well to stop you. Keep it up! We’re all so proud of you and love you heaps.
You are a nut bag though (that was Nick not me)
Chat soon xooxoxoxoxooxoxo
Carly and Nick
Hi Lizzie,
Hope you all have a good rest tomorrow and that all goes well for the last stage up tp the base camp. It was interesting to read about the rhododendron trees you passed some days ago. I read `The Snow Leopard’ a long time ago and one of the things that stuck in my mind was the author walking past rhododendrons growing in their natural environment. Here it has turned green within a few days with lots of small rains but a couple of damging winds. Sunny this morning. Will probably be over for the first weekend in June. Best wishes to everyone.
Love,
Rozzie.