Local time: 09 April 19:30
Weather: Overcast and windy, with snow in the afternoon.
It’s Paul coming to you from Pheriche.
This morning at 6:00am we were woken by the sounds of the horns coming from the Tengboche monastery. We packed our bags and headed to the dining room for breakfast of porridge and toast with eggs. At 8:30 we began walking to Pheriche.
The hike to Pheriche
Its a gentle walk to Pheriche from Tengboche, through the Rhodendrum forests. Unfortunately they are not in bloom yet, but we can see the buds and they are not far off. We detoured off the track to visit the Pangboche monastery, but the person with the keys was not in, so we couldn’t go inside. The Pangboche monastery is the oldest in the region, at 500 years.
There were some great kids there, and we had fun with them letting them take pictures of each other with my camera.
Visiting the Himalayan Rescue Association clinic
This afternoon we visited the Himalayan Rescue Association clinic in Pheriche and they gave us a talk on altitude sickness and acclimatization. They showed us a graph of the change in air pressure with altitude – it is interesting to note that it’s not a straight line. The oxygen levels drop off much faster after about 3500m. So we need to watch each other carefully as we go higher. I found it interesting that they said that they treat more Nepalese people for altitude sickness than trekkers, so they asked us all to keep an eye out for porters that may have ascended too fast and may be displaying symptoms of AMS – the most notable being not walking straight.
It seems that the use of Viagra for the treatment of HAPE (fluid on the lungs) is becoming standard practice. We are carrying Niphedepene, but not Viagra.
Monument to deceased climbers
Outside the HRA clinic is a stainless steel cone with all the names of the climbers that have died attempting Everest. There are a lot of new names from 2006, including Phinjo who was climbing with us last year. This was a very somber moment for all of us, particularly those who knew the dead climbers.
Everyone is feeling well with altitude and no one has any stomach upsets, although I have a sore throat which I am a little concerned about. We are one day behind schedule due to our extra day in Namche, so if everyone feels well in the morning, we will head off to Lobuche tomorrow.
Thanks everyone for your messages – we really enjoy receiving them.
Hi StellarKart, We didn’t buy any soft Yak cheese from the market, but we have been having aged Yak cheese at the lodges. It tastes a little like a hard cheddar.
The dots on Google Earth show each time a position was recorded with our GPS unit (every 4 minutes).
Fiona leaves on April 25, and you can read about her trekking companions on the site.
Hi Corinna, Rudi has been teaching us all how to play Schnapsen – its very complicated. Rudi is sitting opposite me as I write this and he says “Hi to his two wonderful girls”!
Hi MC, no quote today – It was a rest day for everyone!
Hi Julia, we have remarked several times that its strange to think that in only a few weeks you guys will be walking on the very same path as us. (We often say this at the top of a particularly steep hill!)
Hi Trudy, How is TA doing? The last I heard she had a bit of a stomach upset heading into BC, so hopefully she is over this. It sounds like it if she is making her first trip into the icefall.
Hi Dad and Mary, We haven’t been doing too much climbing in the past few days, but if we go up tomorrow it will be a big day (approx 700m).