Local time: 09 April 19:30
Location: Pheriche
Altitude: 4250m
Weather: Overcast and windy, with snow in the afternoon.
Hi Everyone,
It’s Paul coming to you from Pheriche.
This morning at 6:00am we were woken by the sounds of the horns coming from the Tengboche monastery. We packed our bags and headed to the dining room for breakfast of porridge and toast with eggs. At 8:30 we began walking to Pheriche.
The hike to Pheriche
Its a gentle walk to Pheriche from Tengboche, through the Rhodendrum forests. Unfortunately they are not in bloom yet, but we can see the buds and they are not far off. We detoured off the track to visit the Pangboche monastery, but the person with the keys was not in, so we couldn’t go inside. The Pangboche monastery is the oldest in the region, at 500 years.
There were some great kids there, and we had fun with them letting them take pictures of each other with my camera.
Visiting the Himalayan Rescue Association clinic
This afternoon we visited the Himalayan Rescue Association clinic in Pheriche and they gave us a talk on altitude sickness and acclimatization. They showed us a graph of the change in air pressure with altitude – it is interesting to note that it’s not a straight line. The oxygen levels drop off much faster after about 3500m. So we need to watch each other carefully as we go higher. I found it interesting that they said that they treat more Nepalese people for altitude sickness than trekkers, so they asked us all to keep an eye out for porters that may have ascended too fast and may be displaying symptoms of AMS – the most notable being not walking straight.
It seems that the use of Viagra for the treatment of HAPE (fluid on the lungs) is becoming standard practice. We are carrying Niphedepene, but not Viagra.
Monument to deceased climbers
Outside the HRA clinic is a stainless steel cone with all the names of the climbers that have died attempting Everest. There are a lot of new names from 2006, including Phinjo who was climbing with us last year. This was a very somber moment for all of us, particularly those who knew the dead climbers.
Everyone is feeling well with altitude and no one has any stomach upsets, although I have a sore throat which I am a little concerned about. We are one day behind schedule due to our extra day in Namche, so if everyone feels well in the morning, we will head off to Lobuche tomorrow.
Regards,
Paul
Your Messages
Thanks everyone for your messages – we really enjoy receiving them.
Hi StellarKart, We didn’t buy any soft Yak cheese from the market, but we have been having aged Yak cheese at the lodges. It tastes a little like a hard cheddar.
The dots on Google Earth show each time a position was recorded with our GPS unit (every 4 minutes).
Fiona leaves on April 25, and you can read about her trekking companions on the site.
Hi Corinna, Rudi has been teaching us all how to play Schnapsen – its very complicated. Rudi is sitting opposite me as I write this and he says “Hi to his two wonderful girls”!
Hi MC, no quote today – It was a rest day for everyone!
Hi Julia, we have remarked several times that its strange to think that in only a few weeks you guys will be walking on the very same path as us. (We often say this at the top of a particularly steep hill!)
Hi Trudy, How is TA doing? The last I heard she had a bit of a stomach upset heading into BC, so hopefully she is over this. It sounds like it if she is making her first trip into the icefall.
Hi Dad and Mary, We haven’t been doing too much climbing in the past few days, but if we go up tomorrow it will be a big day (approx 700m).
Paul,
Deja vu all over again! Please suck lozenges all the time when you don’t breathe through your nose. You have a tendency for sore throat, so don’t tempt fate again. Take personal care of yourself. You’re so fragile. ;-))
As far as the rest of you. Watch out for Paul. He’s such a tiger….
Steve Dansker
vicarious Everest climber (Mt. McKinley in June)
Hi Paul, I know that there are a lot of serious messages on this site, however I thought it was high time for a laugh – I have plenty of emails in my inbox that can offer you some very cheap deals on viagra, including free shipping which would suit you in your current location… last count showed 412 “deals” for Viagra… you should get in quick, these deals don’t come around all that often! Anyway, enough of the garbage, take it easy, look after yourself (and my iPaq) and enjoy the second attempt – We will be following, supporting and cheering you along all the way. All the best and all of our love, Simon, Jacqui, Jasper (in spirit), Homer & Sammy. PS – I have now lost 13Kg since you started helping me and the plan is still on track, thankyou so much.
Hi Paul, Tim, Dame and co.
Paul, my thoughts today are that you will rid yourself of that sore throat. As I stated to TA, it seems to be one of the challenges that face so many Everest climbers. I hope it will be gone by the time you reach EBC if not sooner. And let’s hope it will not return throughout your climb.
I love the photo of you, Paul, showing the child how to use your camera. It is great for a child to be able to learn new things.
“It is a spark in the imagination that will ignite your creativity and set you on fire.” mc
I hope you´ve had a good hand, Paul 😉 – it´s very importend to play Schnapsen at each place of the world 😉 … I´m happy to hear from you – it seems like that all of you are in good shape!! Hopefully it continues in such this way!! I wish the best to all…
Many, many, many kisses to my “gambler”!!!
Corinna
Paul:
First, I had a good laugh over the Viagra (even though I know you were serious about its use) and I was grateful that today was a holiday and that I wasn’t reading your post out loud to my students. There’s no way they would have been able to concentrate after that!
Secondly, I finally clued in who Meagan is. I was surfing some other Everest sites and came across hers – Meagan McGrath, right? Air Force Captain in the Canadian Forces? 7 Summit Club – You go girl!! This got me thinking about the news and I wondered if you guys are staying on top of what is going on in the world (not that anything catastrophic has happened or anything!!). It’s just that we lost 6 Canadian soldiers in a single attack in Afghanistan yesterday, so I wondered if Meagan was aware of that, and if you were all aware of the broader world, or if you are deliberately sheltering yourselves from international news? Do you bother to find out what is happening back home? Just curious.
Liane
Hi Paul:
Don’t take the viagra up too high. What are you going to do if you have to pee after taking it? Gonna be pretty hard (no pun intended) to get it over the harness……
Hi guys,
I’ve been cut off from the world for the last few days – our internet has been on the blink but had a handy helper today who fixed it all up thank goodness. Adrian is here for brunch and lunch and says hi! We are just about to head out for lunch and a relaxing afternoon. Weather has been beautiful here for the easter break.
Will spend this evening catching up on all the news I’ve missed out on. The oh-so-modern terror of no internet service!
Love Beck R xxxx
Hi Paul, Tim and Dame,
Have missed a few days due to the wonders of a long weekend. Great to read your updates and I hope that you guys are all having fun and enjoying time together at this stage. Enjoyed a great weekend with Fiona and Leah for Easter. Keep healthy and safe, Jacqueline xo
A question for Paul,
As you get higher and obviously it gets colder how do you keep your drinking water on route from freezing?
Glad to hear all is progressing well and hope you don’t have as many problems with your throat as last year.
Andrew and Liz
Hi boys,
Glad you went to the HRA to hear the AMS talk. I found it really interesting thanks to your suggestion to go there.Don’t push yourselves too hard- there is no real rush you know.
Remember to do the Everst breathing that Bridgette told me all about, that might help your throat.
Tashi’s brother’s name is also on that monument- I agree…very sobering.
What is the weather like for you at the moment?
lots of love
Dad and Mary
Love the updates guys. The google earth tracking is great, and proving very popular.
Dame – you tipped six this week and are a very respectable 7th on the ladder… Nice work! Guess who is number 1: yep, your wife!!
Have a shave and keep safe!
Miss you heaps… Bx
Hi guys,
Glad to hear that Easter Bunny made it up too see you guys on the trek! It is a weird feeling reading your updates, thinking that I will be walking in your footsteps in just a few weeks time- . Why do you think that more Nepalese people are treated for altitude sickness than trekkers ?
On Friday some friends and I went up to Mt Donna Buang near Warburton, I definately found it harder not having Paul up front pushing me and blocking my view of how far I still had to go! We went all the way to the top, and were rewarded with a magnificent view of Melbourne and the Yarra Valley. Marg, Fiona and I are planning another trip out there later this week.
Take care of each other,
Love (sister) Beck
Dear boys and girls,
Glad everybody seems ok so far… Hope your throat Paul gets better as well! This Viagra story made me laugh, how funny is that – I would never imagine this sort of usage of Viagra… Also your visit in HRA was very interesting, I have read so many different things about why AMS occurs. The misconception is that there is less oxygen at higher altitude. In reality, the percentage of oxygen is the same, but the air pressure is lower, is it right? Does it mean that there is less available oxygen because there is less oxygen absorbing into the alveoli in the lungs?
I am still enjoying very much reading your lines and flying with Google Earth on your way. Btw, it seems your expedition is testing not just the GPS log and communication system but also the express mail couriers… an other package is chasing Attila, hopefully it is on its way to Lukla as it was delivered by TNT, arrived yesterday to Asian Trekking (and collected by Sangita). I would like to take this opportunity to say thank you to Fiona and Mohan, without them this could not happen.
I have an other question for you (you said you love questions;) I had a teacher who kept telling me the choices we make in our lives really do impact the direction of our futures and also happiness of our life. He emphasised all the time we do have choices…One of the best choices I think anyone can make is figuring out what they are passionate about and finding someone to help them on their way. I have been extremelly lucky to have incredible mentors in my life…who helped me a lot. Do you have any mentors? Parents? Veteran Everest climber? Any teacher of yours?
Finally: choose wisely and keep an eye out for those positive people all around you:)
Best, Mira
Hey Paul, Meagan (and Liane),
What is next for Meagan? As beeing an aerospace engineer is she going to travel in space? Charles Simonyi (best known from leading the development of Microsoft’s Word) became the fifth space tourist just a few days ago. He is originally Hungarian, but moved to USA in the mid-60s. So funny journalists are telling right now we have people everywhere – on the Everest and in the space;)
Your military background is just amazed me, Meagan.
Enjoy your time there