Location: Everest Base Camp
Altitude: 5300 meters
Weather: Mainly fine and sunny
Hi everyone, Fiona here,
Since arriving back at basecamp, it almost seems as though I’ve never left – even though it’s been 11 months since I was here last. The people are different but almost everything else is much the same so it hasn’t been too hard to slip back into “basecamp life”.
A Clean Start
As today has been the first day of fine weather for quite a while, I decided to take advantage of this and take my first shower for 6 days! Well, I guess technically it was a bucket rather than a shower, but it felt great. We have a little “shower tent” here which is the size of a small shower cubicle and you basically get a bucket of hot water and use a jug to pour water over yourself. With the sun shining, the tent heats up and it’s not too cold at all.
I used the left over hot water to do some laundry. So now with the tent moved, body showered and clothes washed, it seems that all the chores are done for a while and its time to get down to the serious business of waiting.
Helicopter Overhead
The highlight of today was that the Nepalese government has decided to remove the crashed helicopter that’s been here for several years. As we ate breakfast we heard the thunder of a helicopter coming and were amazed to watch as it roared just meters over our camp. It then hovered over the crashed helicopter which has been dismantled and dropped a line to pick up some of the heaviest pieces. It ended up making the same trip 3 times. It’s very dangerous for helicopters to fly at this altitude as the air is so thin. Usually they only come to base camp for emergency evacuations.
Weather and other Rumors
By this stage, everyone besides me has been at base camp (or higher) for 30-40 days and it’s clear that thoughts are turning towards getting the climb done and getting home. Some climbers travel between the various camps trying to ascertain when they are likely to make a push for the summit but so far, no-one has summited from the South (Nepalese) side of the mountain. Just last night, a lot of people from our group were thinking of heading up today – but upon receiving the latest weather forecast, they changed their minds.
We’re trying not to get too caught up in the rumors and remembering that we don’t want Paul to be making a summit attempt in the first wave – where there are likely to be delays (due to crowding and/or line fixing) which could potentially be dangerous. That said, we’re still very interested in other teams’ movements and weather information, so we’re treading a fine line.
As of yesterday, we are now getting weather forecasts (from Meteotest in Switzerland) every day. It appears as though the next two days could present opportunities for summiting, but it doesn’t seem as though anyone is currently in position at the high camps to summit. This is now Paul’s 5th day of rest since his last acclimatisation rotation, which is pretty much the minimum rest required after the exertion and physical deterioration caused from going up so high. So it’s really from now on that the waiting for a summit window begins.
Judging from the long-range weather forecasts, the winds look to be reasonably low from 21st to 25th May – so at this stage we’re hoping he’ll make a summit attempt then. This would mean that he’d leave base camp on Thursday 17th May. However, the forecast might change between now and then so we have to remain flexible.
Company
Over the last couple of days, I’ve enjoyed getting to know the climbers here a bit better. Aside from Attila and Reny (who are down-valley at the moment), everyone else is here and it seems as though they’re a great bunch. I have missed having Mum, Beck and the rest of the trek team here with me though. We came to Nepal as quite a disparate group – some knowing each other well, but many with more distant links, and all from quite different backgrounds, ages and experience levels. During the trek into base camp, we came to be a very close group, looking out for each other and sharing lots of laughs along the way. So, it’s a little bit sad that this must come to an end – for me, now, and for the rest of the group in just a couple more days. Anyone that’s been here knows that it is a tremendous achievement for them all to reach base camp and I hope they’re all feeling really proud of what they’ve done. By tonight, they should reach either Deboche or Tengboche – back to the lands of trees.
Your Messages
Thanks for all the messages for the trek team. They won’t have access to them now but will be able to see them in Kathmandu, or possibly Namche (I believe their plan was to reach Namche tomorrow).
To Tamara and Boris – don’t worry, Julia’s hands are fine. It was cold but not cold enough to do any permanent damage!
To Jac and Luke – thanks for the update. All sounds great – we can’t wait to see you when we get back.
To Chris – belated congratulations. Look forward to hearing more about it when we return. In the meantime, good luck with the transition.
To Jacqueline – Congratulations on your news too. Sounds fantastic and look forward to hearing more about it.
That’s all to report for now – time to emerge ourselves in our respective books (until your messages come in of course!).
All the best, Fiona.
I had a good chuckle about what Fi said about settling back into Base Camp. For all of us out here in The Adler Army, it also seems like just yesterday we were on the edges of our seats following your Summit Day adventures. Q for Fi: as an Everest Summiter and now that you’re back at BC, do you ever get the desire to head back up the mountain and give it another go?
The adventures of the trekking gang were quite fun to follow daily. As always this time of year, I’m inspired greatly and would love to make that trek to EBC as well some day. I know someday I will do that, it’s just a matter of when. I have 3 small children, maybe when my son gets older we could make the trek to EBC as a Father/Son deal.
Try not to grow too bored in BC. I recently served 3 days of Jury Duty here, and basically sat in a holding room in the local courthouse for 8 hours each day, never being called onto a jury, reading the latest Tom Clancy novel all that time. It was absolutely mind-numbing. And that was only for 3 days…you all are facing a much longer wait perhaps. Make the best of it and keep the ultimate goal in mind — Paul standing on top of the world with that familiar smile we’ve all come to expect!
Cheers,
Mark R
Jill, Dallas, TX
Fiona, it’s so good to read your posts from Everest again. Last year I was thrilled to follow you and Paul. What a privilege that was. It was like “prime rib” every day. This year it is more like a smorgasbord – getting to know and follow TA and Pat as well as a couple of others on other websites. And, of course, it was really fun following the trekking group who came up with you this year and of course, getting to “know” Paul’s brothers. However, when it is you with Paul again it is special – kind of like I’ve been hungry for “prime rib”! You two started it and that makes the two of you extra special. It takes nothing away from the privilege of getting to know and pull for the others, but you two were the catalysts for others getting to share on this website, so I just wanted to “tip my hat” and say how happy I am that the two of you are again together on the mountain!
Hi Paul and Fiona,
I have just caught up on all that has been going on at Everest base Camp, as I missed a couple of days. I am sorry to say that I did not get to congratulate the trekkers before they headed down the mountain. I am so proud of them all especially Marg. What an inspiration! I can’t wait to catch up on all her news when she returns. Well Fiona you can settle down with a few good books while you wait for the weather to clear and for Paul to start off again. I have listened to the interview with Lindy as well tonight and it was great. Once again, congratulations on what you have done so far and best wishes for safe climbing to the summit.
Glenda.
Hi Paul and Fiona:
Fiona – it’s nice to see you back at BC, reunited with Paul. My students want to know if you will be “testing” Paul with trivia questions and such over the radio when he is high on the mountain to make sure he is thinking straight. We have read of other expeditions that do this as a way of watching for signs of HACE.
Paul – interesting to see you are reading The Kite Runner. We teach that novel in our grade 11 University level class and I love it! Let me know what you think of it when you get done. I found it was such a heartwrenching journey. What other novels have you brought along with you?
Keeping our fingers crossed for a long weather window!
Liane
Hi Paul and Fiona,
I hope the weather gets better up high soon so the groups of climbers there can make the planning for the summit bids. Otherwise rest and read and enjoy the people all around!
Ann and Graham
Good to read that the sunshine has reappeared and laundry could dry and interesting observation about one’s personal perspective and memory, ” that it almost seems as though I’ve never left – even though it’s been 11 months since I was here last.” Fun photos of you both, are those granite boulders? Hope that the weather continues to improve and that you all are in good health & spirit…
wp
Hi Paul and Fi,
We are once again following your progress and reading your updates with much excitement and anticipation. Thanks for your detailed posts and other info – I am in Tassie with my parents at the moment and we have just been marvelling at the technology that is available these days. We are all looking forward to watching your progress over the next couple of weeks Paul, and hope that it all goes smoothly. With lots of love, Maddi, DP and family.
I send greetings from us all in British Columbia and especially from your grandmother. During our visit to Naramata we spent time showing her the photos and stories, day by day account of your journey. Fascinating and she’s completely amazed at the very idea and your stamina. Bonne chance et soyez prudent, cher Petit- Fils!
Hi Fiona,
Great to hear that you have settled back into “basecamp life.” It must feel very weird for you not having to think about climbing yourself however l am sure you are doing plenty of thinking and working for Paul!
It has been terrific following the girls journey to BC and Paul’s daily dispatches have been excellent. I certainly feel as though l am experiencing the Everest journey with you all.
I guess it’s just waiting for the weather window now….. and keeping Paul in good health. My thoughts are with him. I can recall back in 2005 the anxiety and tension around BC as the season came to an end and the climbers waiting for the final summit ascent.
It feels like just yesterday that l spent 3 months living a “basecamp life”, now my mind is focussed for when l return.
Thank you for an awesome website, look forward to catching up (finally) when you return to Melbourne.
Take care to you both,
Cherie
Hi Fiona and Paul
I remember last year when the base camp support was Mary (BC Mum). Fiona, I guess that makes you BC wife! It is great that you are there as Paul makes his second attempt to summit Everest. I was just re-reading your summit day from last year. What an amazing climb! I cannot believe the stamina and perseverance it would take to climb for 15 hours without sleeping for nearly 40 hours!
Paul, so glad your health is holding out. Here’s hoping for a nice weather window. Your time is drawing near…
Climb safe, climb strong,
MC
p.s. As always, great photos; helicopter flying overhead, Fiona washing clothes and Paul reading.
And then there was two….Hi you guys! Hope you’re both still keeping well. Can’t wait to talk to Mum and Beck when they’re back and hear all about their trip. Thanks for your wishes and offer of congrats – the times they be a changin’ for me too. Paul I hope your wait isn’t too long or that you feel forced to attempt in less than ideal circumstances. And Fiona, did you take any homework with you? Just a thought…. Anyway, with love and anticipation, Jacqueline
Hi Fiona & Paul,
First thank you ever so much for the lovely card for Mother’s Day, Fiona, I became quite sad again when I read it early on Sunday morning. I had a fabulous time with you and I couldn’t have asked for anything more – it will always be a cherished memory.
Now we are in Namchee and have decided to stay here for 2 nights and then trek down to Lukla on Wednesday before flying out on Thursday morning. We are all well. AngNima met us after tengboche and was hoping to walk with us to Lukla but he is not strong emnough to walk all the way back. He is hoping to catch up with you when you walk out.
On our way we met Lapka, Attila and Rennie. We also saw the helicoptor carrying the old parts of the crashed plane. Today we also met the British Army guy who went home for a funeral – he is heading back again and will be there in2 or 3 days I think. Cas, Liz, Beck & Julia climbed KalaPatar – Denise & I went on ahead to Lobouche. Now we are staying in the same lodge as previously and are very happy there. Hope everything is good with you both. I miss seeing you. Love Mumxx
i have been very interested in your adventure i think youn are very couragerous and ido hope that this time you are getting to the very top.
all my very good wishes to you
love from us all here oma cas and roger