Local time: 28 April, 17:45
Location: Base Camp
Altitude: 5300m
Weather: Windy and cold overnight, but no snow!
Today Meagan, Atilla and I made our way down to base camp. It’s with much relief that I write this.
Camp 2 to Camp 1
We woke up at 5am, got gear packed had breakfast, and by 6:20 we were on our way. This was a little later than we had hoped, as we wanted to beat the sun hitting the top part of the icefall. It’s this part that is really dangerous, so we moved as fast as we could between camp 2 and the icefall. We were carrying sleeping bags and sleeping mats from camp 2 back to camp 1, so that they are ready for our next rotation.
It was pretty windy last night and this morning, and it didn’t let up as we raced through the gentle slopes of the Western Cwm, until we got to the heavily crevassed section near C1. Here there are lots of ladders spanning the deep crevasses, and steep descents into the shallower ones, with almost vertical ascents out the other side. We dropped our gear off at C1 and then continued down to the icefall.
Crossing the icefall
All the dangerous sections of the icefall are still there: The arch that you go under, the hole that you drop into and then have to climb out, all the while under the shadow of a leaning slab of ice, and the two large 40m high walls that you have to go up/down and look very precarious. A large section had collapsed, but I can’t remember what was there.
I met Pat in the icefall again – he is in great shape and looks well. I was coming down a ladder on a particularly dangerous section and he was waiting to go up, so we couldn’t talk long at all. It’s not conducive to chatting when you have a 40m high wall of ice leaning on a precarious angle.
Oxygen mask demonstration
Ted Atkins came to our camp and gave a talk about the TopOut mask that I am using. Ted makes the oxygen masks and it was really interesting to hear first hand the thought that has gone into the design of the mask. The benefits that Ted mentioned over the standard Poisk mask are:
When you are not breathing in, the oxygen flows into a bag and is not wasted
The system fails safe
It makes a good seal around your face so that oxygen doesn’t leak and fog up your glasses
The oxygen in the bag is taken into your lungs first and goes deeper, making better use of the oxygen
While on the subject of oxygen I weighed all my new bottles supplied by Asian Trekking and they are perfect. I am extremely happy about this 🙂
Massive Avalanches
This afternoon, and even as I write this, there have been some huge avalanches off the west shoulder of Everest. They have reached the icefall and dusted base camp, however luckily no one was injured.
Your Messages
Hi Nick, Our base camp manager Pertemba Sherpa climbed with Bonnington in all his attempts on the South West face. I am sure he is featured in the book, because Pertemba talks about going on a lecture tour with Bonnington. It really looks amazing from C2 – some parts of the rock look overhanging.
Joseph, The Sherpa was with an Italian expedition organized by Thamserku. He lived in Solu, below Lukla and was married to someone from Thame. He was bought down to BC today. I don’t have a name.
Hi Liane, Yes I think that it’s good that Nepal has rules on minimum ages. Chris Harris was the guy from Australia, but I don’t know how high he got – maybe a little above 7000m. Lincoln Hall was also on his expedition. It’s definitely possible to survive a night out, but the repercussions would be severe. Frostbite from the lack of oxygen for one. I have forgotten the detail of the acclimatization process, but from memory it seemed pretty right. Beck Wethers was essentially lowered down the Lhotse face in 1996, and this could have been the inspiration….
Hi MC, Being a climbing Sherpa is such a risky business, but there are not too many other options that pay as well. I wonder if there will still be the same number of Sherpas interested in climbing in the next 20 years.
Hi Mark, We did visit the clinic about 7 times last year, but obviously never made it onto the final film.
Hi Phil and Patti, thanks for your support.
Hi Robert, Vedat, Jarrod, Mark & Sarah, I haven’t seen a Yeti, but many of the Sherpas believe in them. In the Khumjung monastery, they claim to have a Yeti skull. We made a donation and were able to see it. It looks pretty real.
Hi Zoe, Hope you are keeping Zac in line and that both of you are not being too much trouble for Baz and Gab.
Regards,
Paul.
How does the weather look in the future? Do you have a target date for a summit attempt?
Paul:
So glad to read that you are safely back in BC. Your descriptions of the Icefall this year sound ominous. I read on a couple of Everest sites last night that some of the larger expeditions are calling for more Icefall Doctors and even paying more money for extra ladders to be put in. Have you heard this? Is Asian Trekking involved in this at all? It certainly sounds like a few spots need to be rerouted for safety’s sake. I hope that can be done before your next trip through.
Getting back to the Everest books. Yes, I think Korman probably took a bit of inspiration from the Beck Weathers story, although Beck was at least able to walk (somewhat) when he came down Lhotse. I have, of course, read “Into Thin Air” and prior to reading the Everest books I do a short article on Beck Weathers and the storm of ’96 with my students. It actually throws them off every time you mention your sister-n-law “Beck” because they think you’re talking about Beck Weathers!!
Well, enjoy your much-deserved rest at BC and say hi to Meagan for us! I read her blog last night and I was sorry to see how sick she is getting from the kerosene fumes.
Talk to you soon,
Liane
PS – The students absolutely LOVED the fact that you put the yearbook in the background of that picture. We back-tracked through your posts the other day and found it – thanks so much for doing that! Jennifer also really appreciated her personal little note.
Glad nobody was injured from avalanches and you got back to EBC safely. Have some rest and collect as much energy as you can. Btw the poor sherpa’s name is Dawa … (TA mentioned him as well in her post) Mira
Hi Paul
GLAD you are back down in BC safe and sound. The Icefall sounds so treacherous this year. Hopefully the SPCC will be hiring more “doctors” to possible change the route and maintain it. Fingers crossed for you guys.
Great photo of Ted Atkins demonstrating the Top Out mask. I believe I read last year that his original prototype was with a coke can and some tubing! He is definitely a creative thinker; the Top Out is phenomenal.
Rest well at BC.
MC
Hi Paul
Glad to hear you arrived safely back to base camp. It must feel good to have the first rotation over and done with.
Just wondered if Spring and Summer are coming early in Nepal. We’ve had the warmest April on record in the UK, with many plants that normally flower in May or later already finishing. I wonder, is the same happening in Nepal this year and will it affect your efforts to climb Everest?
I’m really enjoying your adventures again this year, thanks for letting us all know what is happening every day.
Good luck to the new support crew on their walk in, I would love to do it one day.
Rose
Hi Paul, glad you and the team made it back to base camp safely. One can understand your relief. The picture of the ice fall looks a terrifying mine field of ice and crevasses, and you feel that its about to collapse at any moment. You might be interested to know that there was a 5 page story on Lincoln Hall (titled “Left for Dead”) in yesterday’s “Good Weekend” magazine (The Age newspaper). It was a very interesting read, and Paul I guess you have some insights into this given you were on the mountain at the same time last year. In the story, it was reported that Christopher Harris suffered blood-pressure collaspse at 6600 metres. (Paul, how do you monitor things like blood pressure up high and is there a health check routine you follow?) Lincoln Hall’s book, “Dead Lucky” will be published next week.
Cam
Hi Paul (and Fiona and Beck and the rest of the crew!),
It has been great to read your regular updates again this year. There was a big article in the good weekend yesterday about Lincoln Hall which was interesting reading (even though we knew a fair bit about what happened to him already). Bridge went shopping yesterday and came home with the new book that he has written (which apparently was a present for me, but I think she is keen to read it as well!).
Have you visited the base camp bakery? how does it rate?
The weather is great in Sydney today after about a week of non stop rain, and the surf is good today, so I’m heading down to Bondi soon.
Chris
Hi Paul,
It’s been a while you haven’t heard from me, but don’t worry, I’ve been following you since the beginning of your trip. I read all your posts and was happy to hear about your trek in to base camp with your brothers. I’m also avid of all the informations you keep on giving us about your climb. It can sometimes be nerve-racking to hear all the stories but I’m pretty sure you’re enjoying every minute of it… I wish you keep on being healthy, safe and lucky!
On my side, I’ve been busy training and raising money for Kilimanjaro. I got to my objective in raising the money for the cause I’m climbing for. Everything has gone so well so far, people are very generous. I’m about to finish work in a couple of days. I’m gonna be off work for 3 weeks before I leave. I’m gonna have more time to hike and work out. I’m leaving for Africa on may 26th. You might be on top around that day or coming down… from the top of the world!!!!
Keep on feeding us with all your pictures, stories and feelings…
Climb safe,
Aeronik :o)
Hi Paul,
Glad to hear all is going well with your rotations. Any sign of the dogs that you saw last year?
Lou
Hi Paul,
Well done on making it back to BC safe and sound. Do you feel completely acclimitized at BC now? Say hello to the rest of the AT team.
Dame