Date: 3pm, 24th May 2007
Location: Everest Base Camp
Altitude: 5300 meters
Weather: Fine but fairly windy
Hi everyone,
I am very happy and relieved to finally report that I’m now safely down at base camp. It’s only really now that I can say that I’ve done it, and can start to celebrate.
Summit Day
As you could probably tell, I was pretty dejected at 5pm on the South Col. We had followed the weather forecasts, and changed our summit date in order to get better weather, but the forecasts changed after we had committed to this new date. With the wind ripping at our tent and blowing snow into it whenever a door was opened, I would have put our chances at less than ten percent. By 8pm, the wind had died off slightly, but I thought it was too windy to go. Having lost 4 toes on my foot to frostbite before, I am now acutely aware of weather conditions. But I spoke to Fiona on the radio and she reminded me of the good gear that I have, in particular the Hotronic footwarmers and Jett heated vest. Both of these would be indispensible later on. At 9pm we decided to give it a try as high as the Balcony and see what the conditions were like.
It’s an incredibly long way to the Balcony and very steep. In the early days of climbing Everest they had their last camp at the Balcony, and I wish we still did! It was so cold when we got to the Balcony. But that’s where the problems with my oxygen started. There was a problem with the thread on one of my bottles, rendering it useless. So I was down a quarter of my bottles. Not too much of a problem. I used a lower flow rate from here on in.
Climbing up to the South Summit was a little harder than last year, as there was much more exposed rocks. It was a poignant moment for me when I came to the spot just below the South Summit where last year I was alone with an empty oxygen tank. I was very glad this year I was using the smaller, lighter Poisk oxygen instead of the IMG system. Poisk can hold about 40% more oxygen for the same weight of tanks. The IMG oxygen system is proprietary, and they use only two bottles instead of 4. Poisk gives you much more redundancy in the event of something going wrong, which can so easily happen with either system.
We continued onto the South summit and then we proceeded to change to my last bottle, which was being carried by Lhakpa. I looked around and Lhakpa was no where to be seen. With only 10% of the bottle left, I was unsure of what to do. I decided that Lhakpa must have gone on to the summit, so I thought I would go to. I could see the whole summit ridge, but couldn’t see Lhakpa, but figured that he might be hidden in a dip. It was then that I realised that my oxygen mask wasn’t working. It has a reservoir in it which catches the oxygen that is flowing out of the bottle when you are not breathing in, and this reservoir was full, and not emptying at all. Two other climbers with us this year reported the same problem. So I was getting less than half the oxygen I should have been. And to make matters worse, I was on a reduced flow rate to be able to have enough oxygen to get to the summit, about 1-2 hours away. So, I found the climb to the summit extremely difficult and I thought I would have to turn back. It was really cold and a number of people turned around, but I was already using the footwarmers and I turned on the Jett vest and this made a massive difference. It was very difficult to breathe, but I found that by concentrating on the breathing techniques I had learnt with the Spirotiger, I was able to progress. The Spirotiger had taught me how to use all my lung capacity and without this I don’t think I would have got there. I noticed I was pretty unsteady on my feet and I had to be very careful not to fall. It wasn’t until I was 10 meters from the summit, that I knew I would get there. When I got there I took some very quick photos and then went to Lhakpa to ask him for my bottle. His reply stunned me – he had left it down below. Try as I might, I couldn’t get him to tell me where it was. He looked at my regulator and first told me that the bottle was nearly full. I said it couldn’t be and asked him to check again. He then looked and said that it was empty – “We go down now”. Oxygen was still flowing, but not for long. I asked him where the last bottle was, but he just kept saying, down there.
So how was my experience on the top? Very fast, a relief for having got there, and absolutely terrifying that any moment I would run out of oxygen for the second time. I did take in the view – The brown plains of Tibet on one side and all the peaks of Nepal spread out way below me, looking like little bumps in a black and white carpet.
We headed down and I found the Hillary Step very difficult. There were quite a few oxygen bottles that had been stashed along the way, and I kept hoping that one of them would be mine. I had decided that if I ran out, that I would use one of these, but stay there while Lhakpa went and collected mine. I would then leave mine in its place, or else swap if I hadn’t used much. This again is one of the benefits of using Poisk over any proprietary system.
Just below the South Summit we found my bottle, and I can’t tell you how relieved I was. A quick change and we were on the way down again.
Snow Blindness & Getting Down to Camp 2
I was wearing some new goggles with a fan in them to stop them fogging up. Despite this, as we descended they started to fog up a lot. By the time we got to the balcony they were really foggy and I was warm, so I took off my goggles to put my sunglasses on, and that’s when I realised the foggy vision was actually my eyes, and not the goggles. Within minutes, my vision deteriorated further, and I could hardly see anything, just blurry colors. Talk about scary. Lhakpa was resting and I was extremely anxious to get down, so I started following the ropes down on my own. Pretty soon I couldn’t even see the rope against the snow and had to scratch around for the next one when I came to the end of each. Once I followed an old rope which came to a dead end, and I had to go back up again to the last rope.
Fortunately, Lhakpa caught up to me and then we made better progress down, as he clipped me into each rope. It was such a relief to reach the South Col. I crashed into the tent, shortly followed by Attila.
At this stage I didn’t know what was wrong with me, but I suspected that I had frozen my cornea with the extremely cold winds. Attila said that he thought it was snow blindness, but I said I didn’t have any pain at all. We spoke to a very relieved but soon concerned Fiona, and she came back saying that she thought it was snow blindness too. It turns out the goggles don’t have high enough UV protection. I decided to stay overnight at the South Col, but our very experienced base camp manager Ptemba said that it could worsen, and that I had better head down to C2 straight away. So I packed up everything as best I could and headed down.
As I headed down, wearing both goggles and sunglasses, it was very difficult to work the ropes. I was utterly exhausted when I reached C2, having been on the go for some 18 hours. I crashed into a tent and slept until the morning.
Last Time Through the Icefall
At 5am Attila and I woke, packed and left for base camp. I found it very tiring getting down, as I had very little energy reserves left. At one point I heard a large crash in the icefall above me, and later Attila, who was behind me, reported that a huge section of the route had collapsed and he had to negotiate a way around it. Talk about both of us being lucky.
I was needing to stop and rest every 15 meters. But this was before I came across a person from the Singapore team who had fallen into a crevasse. I think he was crossing a ladder when one of the ropes gave way, and he toppled into it. He was with a Sherpa and the sherpa couldn’t work out what to do. Dawa, the son of the owner of Asian Trekking, also came along, and with the three of us, we lowered a rope down to the man, and just hauled him out. Not the text book way of doing it, but it was fast. I carried on down, now even more tired, which I didn’t think was possible.
I rounded a corner and who should I see, but Fiona, who had borrowed Meagan’s climbing boots and climbed up to see me. She had even crossed several ladders, without a harness or crampons. It was fantastic to see her, and the the drinks and food was a lifesaver. We carried on down together, just like last year. At the bottom of the icefall, we met Joseph, who has a small outdoor photographic studio setup and is making a coffee table book about the people on Everest this year. I think it will be great reading.
Amazing Support
Both Fiona and I would especially like to thank Nick Grainger for his tireless support throughout this second climb. You have probably caught glimpses of his involvement, but while we’ve been up here, he’s been the lynch-pin of our contact with the outside world. Thanks a lot Nick!
We’d also like to mention our families. Both this year and last, we know we’ve put them all through a lot. When we sent an SMS today saying that I was through the dangerous section of the icefall, John wrote back – “now we can breath again”. It’s easy for us to forget what we put them through but we very much appreciate their support.
Thanks to everyone else as well for your support and encouragement throughout this climb. It’s been absolutely fantastic having you along for the ride. It’s been a very long expedition and the connection with a the outside world through your messages has been a fantastic help in keeping me motivated and focussed. I feel as though it’s not just me that’s climbed but a whole bunch of you!
That’s all for now. Tomorrow, we plan to start the trek out – probably over 3 days.
Paul.
Outstanding Paul. Glad you are back safely.
Alan
What an amazing experience – was having shivers as I was reading your account of the summit day and descent.
Looking forward to speaking to you to ask you many many questions… 🙂
Cheers for now,
Marc
Amazing…Fiona’s ” Chocolate Stop ” always works the magic…..No harness or crampons…girl are you mad???
cas
Paul, Fiona and Mom,
You’re the man !!!!!!!!!!!! Can’t tell you of how proud we are of you and also of Fiona and Mom. Now you can rest. Goes to show , where there is a will, there is a way. Welcome back to Base Camp.
Will read your story of the summit climb tonight in bed thanking God for your safe return.
Hugs and Kisses,
Larry and Marianne B
Paul – Congratulations on reaching the summit in good style. Also, congratulations to you and Fiona for the success of the “My Everest” website. It seems to have handled its first Everest season flawlessly – a rare achievement in software.
If you get a chance, swing by the Exploradus camp and say hello to Nima Tashi (Jim’s sirdar). He is a good friend of mine and reached the summit for the 10th time this year.
Well done Paul.
Jill, Dallas, TX
Thanks for taking the time to give us a detailed account, Paul. I don’t think I would give your Sherpa the highest recommendation for future climbers! I’m really looking forward to your comparison of IMG and Asian Trekking.
Have a WONDERFUL trek back to Lulka!
Whew! So glad to read that you are back and in the comfort of your wife’s presence :). I am utterly impressed at the two of you, as you’ve been apart quite a bit the past few weeks. You’re an awesome team, for sure. Paul, great job. It doesn’t sound like it was easy, but you did it. Thank GOD for good gear. You sure did your research this time around, and I bet your experience will help other climbers. I am interested to hear more about your opinions on your sherpa. I have no business even commenting on the situation, as the climber/sherpa relationship is complicated and intimate, I can imagine. But I do wish to know if you are at all shaken by the fact that he wasn’t with you during your entire ascent; not to mention, was it just miscommunication regarding your oxygen bottle? All I can says is: I am damn glad you made it up and back safely. Had oxygen been a problem for you this second time around, I would be mad for you. You must be in excellent physical shape.
Congrats to you – you are a true mountaineer. Hi Fiona! Glad Paul is now safe; I can hardly imagine this scenario with my husband. It must take a lot of trust and faith. You guys rock.
Enjoy your travels out and a hot shower soon!
Jo, WI, USA
Hi Paul,
Congrats on making it safely down to Base Camp. Your mental and physical toughness are something to be greatly admired. The story of your summit day adventures was simply riveting. I can’t wait to hear some more details, fill in the margins a bit, especially regarding last year to this. Maybe I’m ignorant due to inexperience, but what is the deal with your Sherpas? As I recall, last year your Sherpa was nowhere to be seen for awhile when you ran out of O’s just below the South Summit. And this year Lhakpa was “where?” when you ran into trouble once more, and then didn’t bring your last bottle up nor tell you where it was. Am I being overly critical to say that concerns and bothers me greatly for you, not to mention it put you in very real danger both times? Anyway, perhaps that’s a discussion for another day. We’re all so proud of your accomplishment, you are a man among men! Now pack up and enjoy the trek out. Enjoy the free dinner at The Rumdoodle! I’m sure there’s a wonderful reunion waiting for you back home in Australia.
Blessings and prayers from Pennsylvania USA,
Mark R
Paul:
What an incredible story! Everest is tough enough, without all those other obstacles. I’m sure it was a terrifying experience, but you seemed to have handled it all with amazing strength and will. We are all so proud of you! Your journey to the top has been an inspiration to all of my students – thanks for taking us along for the ride. Have a safe trek down through the valley. I hope to stay in touch with you once you return to Australia.
Liane
Hi Paul, Fi and Nick
Gosh, that was even scary to read ….Paul I can imagine to go through on this was even more challanging…. oxygen probs, snowblindness, crevasse, large crash in the Icefall, even to see Fiona without crampons and harness…. Paul this was trully dramatic – you probably would be a great movie director. Take into consideration as your next job!;) Fi you are extremelly brave one! When I read how you go to welcome Paul…. gave me the creeps.
For your special thanks to Nick I would like to add our, Hungarian part. Nick was the one who confirmed me Attila’s summit along with Paul. Receiving your message, Fiona with Nick’s help was one of the biggest relief of my life: YES ATTILA WAS ON TOP W PAUL AND OK…Well thanks again and again and again.
His mum kept running to the computer in every hours as she told me later on… checking the internet for desperately receiving any news. When finally Nick could confirm me that he is OK, I could share with all the people on his site…You two made a huge difference. Attila just could make a call from back South Col which was a few hours later when we were already very pleased at least knowing sg about him. Please let Attila know that his parents are very-very-very proud of him, and as Paul’s parents now they can breath again:)
Thanks for having me along your way. That was a special experience. Enjoy the vibrant colours and trees again on your safe trek back to Lukla.
All the best for anything what comes in your life,
Mira
Paul, we waited until we knew your climb had been fully concluded and you were safely back with Fiona at Base Camp before sending our congratulations to you….and at last we can co that! It’s wonderful that you overcame so much to bring this about. We send love. Anne & Ron, Black Rock.
Glad to see you and team are safe and sound. And a very successful trip.. Frank in Happy Valley Labrador.
Hearty congratulations to you Paul! Well done for waiting Fiona – it must have been so hard to be so close and yet so far to him during this. And thanks you Nick for the work you’ve done so we could all climb up Everest on Paul’s virtual shoulder!
🙂
Dear Paul & Fi,
What Paul won’t do for a curtain call!? Weird stuff happens to him above 28000 feet. There must be a point to be made here: the Gods are telling you not to do this again. Or else they are saying you are ready for Prime Time TV. I think we should rename you Paul “Murphy’s Law” Adler. It sure puts an exclamation point to the adage “be prepared”. You certainly were. And to think that at that altitude you were able to think clearly enough to survive and succeed. Simply amazing, man. Unless I miss my guess, Mr. Howard will bestow upon you the Royal Order of “whatnot”. Take it with grace and know that you both have achieved something no other Australian couple has EVER done. Sorry, if you don’t like notoriety, you’re in for trouble. Thanks for letting all of us flatlanders share a piece of glory. This all was “beautimous”. Thanks ever so much.
Steve D.
Mt McKinley in 25 days.
Paul,
Great to hear you made it down to base camp safely. Your account impresses the real dangers of this mountain and what a thin line climbers tread in attempting to summit Everest and safely make it down again. Paul, you almost struck a quinella with the oxygen situation, who would have thought. But the Gods were smiling and you were okay. Savor your summit and your incredible achievement.
Thank you to Nick Granger and the rest of your support crew. I have thoroughly enjoyed following your climb and reading your updates. Fiona, you must be relieved and I can only think you were a real inspiration for Pauls success on his second summit attempt.
Well there is now a bottle of Grange to be had sometime when you are back in Melbourne.
Cam
Hi guys,
We are so glad that you are both back safe down at BC now & that you were such a success Paul! It is an amazing story and I’m sure an experience you will never forget (especially since you will have to keep recounting it to all your friends like us who are vicarious adverturers through you guys!!!). We can now all relax in the knowledge that you never have to do that again, although the amazing updates will be sorely missed! Look forward to celebrating with you next time we are back in Australia.
Fi, Mark, Annabelle & Xander.
I was riveted to your TR, Paul…I tried to envision everything you experienced. You showed strength, determination, courage and you had a lucky star over you. Enjoy your trek back to Kathmandu and I look forward to seeing a pic of your signature on the wall of Rumdoodles!
The best,
MC
p.s. Great summit pix!!!!!
And you are safe now… congratulations, amazing recount of your success although hard, now you are safe and you can enjoy it…i bet it was super great seeing Fiona waiting for you earlier than you thought. Great job Fiona…
i like what somebody said that “we could climb Everest on Paul’s virtual shoulder”…
we will definitely miss your stories for next year, but thanks to you guys we might be able to read somebody else’s story through MyEverest.
I’m wondering if you are going to do a photo gallery like you did last year on your other website. Although if you don’t, it was still great all the pictures you posted…
thanks for letting us enjoy your experience
Congratulations
Moraima
Well done Paul in achieving your goal even against all the odds. We are so very proud of you – your strength, determination, perserverence and endeavour. Fiona you were so strong to hold it all together at BC. Now you can both relax – try to enjoy the trek out – the scenery, people, atmosphere of the whole area. When you are in Lukla at the lodge don’t eat the cheese omelette for breakfast as I think it was that that made me sick again!!. We so look forward to seeing you back home at sea level again. Last night we had a few celebratory drinks with dad, Mary, Nick & Tomi – it was really great to discuss your trip and various issues around it in a relaxed mode – we all breathed easily again.
all our love Marg & Neil xx
Paul,
You are an inspiration to us all. As always, we are in awe of your vision, commitment, strength and fortitude. If we can live our life with half the passion you and Fi do, we’ll be fortunate indeed.
Much love
Maddi, DP and team
Wow, I did not realize how dangerous your situation was until now. Even with all the preparation, inspection, research, and time you put into this attempt you still managed to have some problems in potentially preventing you to summit.
The general public seems to think that people that want to climb Everest are “crazy” but from meeting all the climbers and talking with your team, I got the impression that people who climb are just “experienced.” (well some are crazy….. but most experienced) And that the main thing that could get in the way is the weather but now I see that is not the case. So I guess I will put my hopes of attempting it next year on hold. haha. anyways, I’m very happy that you made it safely and you managed to overcome the obstacles. Maybe, the fact that you didnt want the same problem to keep you from the same goal (plus your more than reasonable level of fitness) played your motivation to keep going harder. All I have to say is you are one lucky man paul. hope all your congratulations on your trek down to lukla serves you welll. or will you just take the helicopter out from basecamp??
-Julia
Followed your climb this year and last. I do not know anyone else who deserved the summit more, and so glad to see you are down safely. J Geale
To Paul, what an achievement! Everest conquered. Congratulations, have a safe trip home, best wishes, Nana
Congratulations Paul, and many thanks for the riveting narrative! You and oxygen bottles clearly don’t have a good, close working relationship – but you and Fiona sure do! It was clearly a great team effort – well done both of you!
Love from Jan Garrard
Great story. Be careful on your way down.
Vedat, Rob, Mark, Sarah & Jarrod
Oh Paul and Fiona
You guys are really awesome and rereading your account this morning gives me goosebumps!! Your tenacity (or is it stubborness!!) (combined with the smiling mountain gods ) and strength is unbelievable to mere mortals down here at sea level!!! We are so proud of you both! Marg had some fun stories to tell us last night as we relived her trek in and celebrated your success. We gave Fiona a little celebratory parcel when she left-hopefully she can find it in her pack and you can think of us (and home) as you eat it. Rest, take care and we will see you soon and can then give you guys the hugs and kisses you deserve. Everyone here is so proud of you and send their love …
with much love and pride
Dad and Mary
xxxx
You’re one strong man Paul. Awesome stuff. Jordan family. Vic. Aus.
It’s great to hear your back safe and sound. Can’t wait to hear more about your adventures. Look after yourself, as i’m sure Fi will. Well done once again.
Matt
well done to you all. you will just have to write a book about all this!your cool head and out standing preparation has stood by you on that last pitch from c4 to the summit. ”well done aussies”. cheers[ken.nz]
Hi Paul
Well done and great reading, look forward to the IMG/Asian Trekking comparison.
BTW I sent you a private email about maps and speaking with Asian Trekking or some of their contacts, let me know how we should communicate about this privately.
Cheers
Roger
It’s a huge relief to have you back safe and sound, your eyes okay, and all your body bits okay too. Pity you had such drama, but being on top even for 5 minutes will surely wipe out the negatives – what a fantastic image you’ll carry in your mind all your life – the photo from the top was awesome. As we said before, well done Paul, an amazing achievement, and you too Fiona for your bid last year and your support this year. I still think of you two when I’m reluctant to do something I need to do ‘well this is my everest, they did it, so I can with this’ – you’re the inspiration duo. And thanks Nick for keeping us on our toes and breathless.
and that last comment was from Rosemary and Dave at Paynesville. Okay, next time I’ll log on to your site properly…next time? Wonder when and what that will be!
have to add to the congrats! wow – what a story of persistance and duration. I love the picture of you and Fiona at the bottom of the icefall. My only potential disappointment is my vision of you and Pat and Mikey and Mike and Rob and Anna reuniting somewhere along the way to compare stories. Maybe that is unrealistic? you all seem to be on separate journeys now – regardless of the anticipation at base camp at the beginning of the trip. I am sitting patiently waiting to hear from Pat or Carol that he is down safely. I have a weird question, that IceFall looks so ominous – does it ever melt a bit – like in June/July/August and wipe out base camp. Is that why you need to climb in May and not in the summer months?
Okay – you don’t know me like Pat does, so I don’t want to push it with weird questions. But am feeling like I have followed you along “for the ride” – and that is worth a certain “bonding” in my mind.
Best of luck to you and Fiona in the trek down
Bonnie
Paul, that you have returned safely to BC … photo of you two very happy campers is wonderful to behold and hoping that your eyes are fine and that your energy returns to you for a most pleasant return down valley and thicker air…this entire cyber experience has been for me most revelatory and engaging…thanks to Mr. Grainger for helping to create such an interesting experience for me to become a participant within and to Paul & Fiona for the ideas and direction. Glad to learn that the Jett Vest was so helpful, your description of the wind and cold is powerful and amazing that you continued onward despite continuing formidable obstacles… Hope that you getting plenty to eat and drink and some good rest before leaving basecamp and have a most joyous return trail trip…
All the Best to You, Fiona, Atilla and colleagues…
wp
Hi Paul,
Great to hear you are OK despite the rough climb back. Fantastic effort well done. Thanks once again for sharing the experience. Was great to see Fiona and you with big smiles UNDER the icefall.
Thanks to Nick who came through like last year. Can’t wait to read the updates, see any photos and in a few months say hi. YOU DID IT.
Phil M
An other big congratulations and a great releaf from austria.
When I read today, that you both were safly down through the icefall, it was also a great releaf for me, as I know from my expe. 2005 and 2006 how dangereous the icefall becomes with the beginning of the really warm days end of may.
I wish you all the best and a nice hike out to Lukla, may the monsoon stay out till you can catch a plane to fly out to ktm.!! Many greetings and again congratulations. Oh, and maybe you can test the one or other bakery on the way out….. Walter
Dear Paul and Fiona, we are so happy for you and your wonderful families…congrats again on making it to the top of the world in every way.With love Jen and Geoff D
Congratulations!! I met Fiona in the Base Camp bakery on May 18 afternoon and hope there was some of that exceptional apple pie left to celebrate with.
I was unaware of your attempt and hope the Melbourne (and Australian!) papers tell us more of your story.
Geoff Bolland, South Yarra