Local time: 5 May, 17:15
Location: Camp 2
Altitude: 6500m
Weather: Sunny and warm, but -8C overnight.
Hi it’s Paul coming to you from camp 2. Today we rested and ate; toast, eggs and muesli for breakfast, and sandwiches, apple pie and tinned mango for lunch. Who knows what dinner will bring! Hopefully tomorrow it’s off up the Lhotse face to C3, which will be a big day and our first real taste of climbing.
What to wear
I have been going through my wardrobe up here trying to decide what to wear up to C3. Down suits were the fashion last year (well, strongly advised), but we ended up getting very hot and sweaty. This can have a long term negative effect on the loft and therefore warmth of the suit. However it can get cold as you climb up to +7200m, so what to do? Well, I have been given a Jett heated vest to test in the altitude and cold of the Everest, so I have decided to take this to camp 3 instead of the down suit. The Jett vest is a reasonably new product, and it’s normally worn by motorcyclists, but I think it could be really useful in climbing, especially for emergency situations. It’s extremely lightweight, the battery lasts for over 8 hours and there are 3 different heat settings. I have tried it here at C2 and within a minute you can feel the warmth down your back and spine. So, I will wear the same gear that I left base camp in, plus the heated vest and some thermal underwear. This will save me a lot of weight, which is really important up at this altitude. The wind is an important factor, so I will have goggles to help out here. Everything else is windproof.
Asian Trekking experience so far
Lhakpa sent me a message from Namche yesterday, to say that he starting to feel better. Asian Trekking have provided me with another Sherpa, although I didn’t ask for a replacement for this climb up to C3. I must say how happy I have been with the service provided by Asian Trekking and all the staff. I have been made to feel like a valued paying customer, which I can tell you is very different from our experience last year with a different company. I get the feeling that Asian Trekking get their business primarily through referrals and not through flashy web sites or smooth talking people; I was referred to them by many climbers who had used them on repeat trips. It seems to me that they are really trying hard to please.
Julia’s Update
I had so much fun reading Julia’s update, that I showed it around to everyone here at camp 2. A lot of laughs.
Your Messages
Hi Rick, Thanks a lot for your message. Glad you enjoyed our updates from last year and that you are following along this time as it unfolds.
Hi Ann and Graham, The base of the cot looks like it made out of a reinforced plastic material. It looks very similar to a modern sail on a yacht.
Hi Bill and Liz, Great luck with your trip. Glad you liked the dogs.
Hi MC, It was so amazing to see Pat at almost exactly the same spot as I did the last time.
Hi JB, It’s a good point. The mask wants to sit a little lopsided because the bottle is on one side. There is a clip provided to attach the bottle to your down suit or harness, to hold its weight. This works reasonably well.
Hi Jennifer, I am feeling fantastic this time on Everest. My health is 100%, we have a very strong team and there are no chest infections, which is really good. I am not at c3 yet, but I promise I will write and tell you about it. If you ask me a question and are logged in, then I will definitely answer you.
Hi Paula, Can you email Lhakpa and tell him not to hurry back. I will be annoyed if he comes back early and isn’t 100% better! Will say hello to Ptemba. He is such a great guy – funny sense of humor and really knows his stuff.
Hi Ken, Yes, its very civilized. I felt a bit silly sharing Australian made Hungarian Salami with a Hungarian, but he said it was not too bad. We also had slices of garlic too.
Hi Meals, Yes you are very naughty, but all is forgiven.
Will hopefully be coming to you from 7300m tomorrow.
Paul.
Paul
Great update as usual and the Asian Trekking service sounds 5 star – great client service with a replacement sherpa and you are fed like a king. I am also impressed with your R&D / innovation bent in testing the Jett vest high on the mountain on your climb up to camp 3. Do you have a spare battery for contingencies? I am interested to hear how it works, could have great application for other sports such as fishing etc. As usual, climb safely and use good judgment.
Take care and be well.
Cam
hi paul,
all the best fror the climb to camp 3 tomorrow. i will be interested to hear how the jett suit goes.
website is working great, also.
say hi to fiona when she arrives in the next day or two.
climb well,
gavin
I’ll also be interested to hear how your Jett vest works. I’ve often wondered how something like that would work out while climbing. I always figured that it would be too heavy, but I suppose in comparison to the full down suit its probably lighter. Should be interesting to see how the batteries perform in the cold.
I’m also a little surprised that you didn’t like your overall experience with that “other” company from last year. While I haven’t been with them, I’ve gone with other similar big name companies and thought wonders of them. I’d be interested in hearing more about what you liked and didn’t like as I’m eyeing potential companies myself for a planned 2009 trip to Nepal.
Hi Paul,
Phil M here. Thanks for the updates although I am getting really frustrated because I am not able to follow your climb as my computers (work and home) have both crashed. Just got this one back (home), and have just listened to your description about going to the Lhotse face in the next few days. It is still an amazing experience from home. How is your health and cough going? I haven’t had a chance to read all your updates yet. My mother in law is involved – listening and reading this time – she is astonished at what you are doing. More importantly – Google earth updates and we can watch (almost) what is happening. Look forward to being able to watch daily from now. Keep well and stay safe. Phil
Hi Paul,
Sounds like you’re going really well – your audio message yesterday sounded relaxed and confident, with hardly a trace of the breathlessness that we noticed last year. Best wishes for a safe climb up to camp 3 tomorrow. I hope the weather is good and that the Jett suit works well for you.
cheers
Neil
Hi Paul, you just wrote me that you hope that TA doesn’t feel pressured to leave.
Thought tell you she has decided to leave. “My Everest Teammates, I imagine on this day where I have made one of the hardest decisions of my life, you are at or are heading towards basecamp, with only your summit rotation left to go. Most of you were up the mountain, when I was hit for the second time with another illness. The diagnosis…giardia. I spent three days at basecamp trying to beat it and then a few days at Pheriche. Today, having lost 25 pounds, still vomiting in the morning, and realizing that I didn’t have much physical reserve left, I made the decision to go home to heal.” 🙁 ”
She climbed her Everest even if this is not the snow and ice covered one. All my love is with her, hope she gets better very soon.
Wishing you continuous luck with your attempt – great receiving your very positive daily updates. Great read, thanks for them! I would suggest to introduce some other important parts of your gear (the oxygen system and also this Jett suits were pretty interesting). Can you tell us a bit more about jumar?
Best, Mira
Interesting gear comparison image…hope that climb to Camp 3 goes very well and the weather is fine and the excellent meals with apple pie on Mt. Everest :>. Hope that all continues to go well with the rest of the team, don’t forget the sunscreen. All the best…
wp
Hey Paul
The Jett heated vest sounds like the way to go. I will be very interested in hearing how it worked for you, climbing to C-3. The idea of “less weight” is very appealing! I love your positive attitude and you are continuing to inspire me as I am pursuing my own “mt. everest”! Your audio blog describing how you were having to go back down and around some of the crevasses on your way up the Khumbu Glacier to C-2 is how I am feeling as I pursue my dream. Climbing Everest really does simulate life in a compact 2 month period!!! Thanks again for getting MyEverest.com up and running before your climb this year. I will look forward to seeing your location on GoogleEarth up at C-3!
The best to you and the team. Asian Trekking sounds like a phenomenal company!
MC
Paul:
Just wanted to send you best wishes as you head out to tackle the Lhotse Face tomorrow. I know you’re in for a tough slog, but you sound more than ready for the climb up to camp 3. Just keep that jumar clipped on to the line!! Incidentally, what are the “rules” when it comes to unclipping for another climber? Who is supposed to unclip – the ascending climber or the descending climber?
Looking forward to hearing about your climb up Lhotse.
Cheers,
Liane
PS – Thanks for patiently replying to all of my students’ posts. As you can tell, one person in particular is a little addicted to posting! You are very kind 🙂
Hi Paul,
I am really enjoying all your updates and following your climb each day. I am also loving reading the mail from the girls. So glad all is going well. Good luck with the next section of the climb and I do hope you have chosen the right clothes to wear….. so much to organize. All the Hanton family are wishing you well.
Glenda Baker.