Local time: 30 March 18:45
Location: Kathmandu, Nepal
Altitude: 1315m
Weather: Overcast, slightly humid and 25C
Hi Everyone, Paul here coming to you from Kathmandu. I wasn’t sure how I would feel being back here only 10 months after leaving, but I can tell you I feel great and I am really excited about the next two months.
The last day at home was a mad rush to get last minute things organized, but I got there with a fair bit of help from Fiona. She has been great helping me with lists and more lists, the contents of which seemed to be ever growing, not shrinking. But I got there and made my plane OK and I am grateful for my family who drove out to the airport to see me off.
Everything went smoothly at the airport in Kathmandu, where I was met and taken to my hotel (Vaishali). It seems pretty nice, but it’s certainly no Hyatt. When I checked in there was a note that Elizabeth Hawley wants to meet me tomorrow – don’t know how she found out about me or my arrival, but apparently she has a habit of doing this. Elizabeth Hawley is a long time researcher of Everest climbers and has documented almost all of the attempts and summits for many decades. I think this will be an interesting experience.
Later in the afternoon I went and met Mohan from Asian Trekking and reviewed all the agreements that I had made with him, plus paid the balance of the expedition costs. Everything seems to be in order which was great, although the oxygen hasn’t yet arrived from Russia. I was assured that by the time we need it, it will be here. As Asian Trekking are the main agent for Poisk oxygen in Kathmandu, I am not too concerned. Mohan outlined a couple of administrative details to that need to be attended to – we have a group meeting to go over all the logistics at 10am on Sunday and then on Monday we are going to complete the climbing permit application with the Ministry of Tourism. I am interested to see what this involves.
After that I went back to the Hotel and met with Lakpa, my climbing Sherpa. Lakpa is a similar age to me (all the Sherpas like to ask you your age when they meet you), is from Thame, near Namche, but lives in Kathmandu now. He seems like a really great guy. It turned out that Lakpa was also climbing on the same day that Fiona and I were last year. He didn’t have much time so I didn’t get much of a chance to talk to him, but I am really keen to get to know him well – I am sure that the next two months will provide plenty of opportunities.
I also met up with Steve and Atilla; two other climbers with Asian Trekking. We are off for dinner in a few minutes (maybe Fire and Ice, or else Rumdoodle, which is right next door to the hotel). I am pretty tired, so its going to be an early night for me.
Talk to you tomorrow,
Paul.
Paul:
Glad to hear you had a nice arrival in Kathmandu. We will be extremely interested in hearing of your meeting with Elizabeth Hawley. Tam has read her books and followed her documentation………What an interesting and adventuresome woman!
Rest up! As you know, the best is yet to come………
Namaste,
Den-n-Tam
Paul:
Glad to hear you’ve arrived in Kathmandu safe and sound. I showed the students a Discovery documentary today about Everest and Nepal, and they saw just how crazy and hectic Kathmandu is! They all said how sorry they felt for you and that you would probably be looking forward to the (relative) peace and quiet of Base Camp! When do you begin your trek? Enjoy your dinner tonight and we’ll look forward to reading your post tomorrow!
Liane
Paul,
Great to hear you got to Kathmandu ok. I just took Tim to the airport this morning. As you know, he will be in Bangkok tomorrow and in Kathmandu the day after.
Yesterday was a bit of a mad rush as well but all his and your gear is on the way. I hope the airport security guards that check the luggage are not hungry; otherwise the huge amount of cereal bars, cheese, and nuts will be in danger 🙂
Dame,
Not sure when you are leaving but have a good flight.
Waiting for the next update..
Inna.
Hi Paul,
I am a friend of TA Loeffleurs here in Newfoundland and I have heard your named mentioned many times in emails with her as we discussed various technology options etc. I have been following her via this website and dropping the odd comment but if and when you see her at EBC tell her I said hello. Best of luck on your attempt and thanks for this great website, I now have the ability to follow you all with ease.
God Speed
Darrell Cole
Hi Paul,
Back in Kathmandu! I bet the taxi ride was wild once again. Good luck with Ms. Hawley, she is kind of like Santa Claus – you know the song “He knows when you been bad or good…” I know she will be interested in MyEverest. Anyway, have fun and have a cold one for me at F&I.
Alan A.
Hello Paul
I am looking forward to hearing about your meeting with Elizabeth Hawley. She is quite a legend. Glad you made it safely to Kathmandu.
MC
Paul
Glad to hear you safely made it to Katters and got all your gear together – the oxygen issue must have been a stressor – but relax – its Nepal after all. These posts are great – we feel like we are traveling with you all the way. I was woken at 5am this morning by our 6 month old, Josh, and was wondering whether there would be a post from you since your departure from Melbourne – and yes checked the Blackberry to see your smiling face and Lakpa (do you ever not smile!). Good luck with the climbing permit – would love to hear what that involves. I remember the Chris Dewhirst Everest high altitude balloon expedition documentary “Flight of the Windhorse” (circa. 1986) and the crazy logistics and antics of getting their flight permit from the Ministry. Hope your permit process runs more smoothly. Enjoy Kathmandu.
Cam
Hi Paul, the excitement must be a real push to shake off jet lag and get to planning/permitting.(if that is a word!) As the above post states, you have a very infectious smile and we look forward to seeing you and family along the way!
Ann and Graham
Hi Paul;
once again we will folow your exploits with bated breath. (I have trouble climbing the stairs in our TownHouse ( only kidding)) this is your time so take your time
max & Judy
Hi Paul,
Great to hear you have made it to Kathmandu safe an sound. I got everything finished at work yesterday on time and have since been busy packing and getting organised. I am now all packed and due to head off to Melbourne in the next few hours.
See you soon,
Dame
Inna – Thanks for the message. I am planning to sleep all the way to Thailand and then Kathmandu!
Great to hear you have arrived safely, Paul. Good luck with all those forms. And I think I know what to bring back for Arlie. Those bags are right up her alley! Take care.
Liz James
Hi Den and Tam,
Unfortunantly I didn’t get to meet Ms Hawley – she sent a representative, Billi. But I recorded an interview with her about Ms Hawley, which I hope to be able to upload to the site in the next couple of days.
Paul.
It is crazy in Kathmandu. It’s also a little dusty, so I have started wearing my surgical mask around town – looks a little silly, but I don’t want to get sick. Damien and Tim arrive tomorrow, then we have another day to get some last minute gear and then it’s off on Tuesday. It will be a lot more pleasant in the hills. Paul.
Hi Darrell, TA sees all the messages that you post to her. So do keep posting them to her, becuase its such a big motivator over a long expedition like Everest. I will definately go and see her at BC, so I’ll pass it along.
Thanks for the feedback about the site. We had so much fun with our site last year, that we wanted to make the technology available to other people and this is the outcome of that.
Rgds, Paul.
Hi Alan,
The traffic was crazy from the airport to the hotel. There is nothing quite like it. I think you could just about walk there faster.
When I spoke with Billi toay, she talked about how Ms Hawley is very interested in email addresses and she says that you can tell a lot about a person from their email address.
Paul.
I try my best to share all the information with you’so that you can experience the journey. But do give me ideas on what to write about, because sometimes when you are living it, it almost starts to feel commonplace and not interesting to write about. I too am interested to know whats involved with the permitting process as this is new territory for me.
I try to post about 6pm Nepal time, which is about 9:30pm AEST. If you are logged into MyEverest and you click on MyAccount and set your local time settings, all the times will be shown in your time zone. Then you will be able to work out approximately when the new post will come through. For Australia its after 9pm and for the US it’s about 3am-5am.
Paul.
Hi MC, Great to hear from you as always. Made it to KTM fine, but there was an anxious wait at the airport for one of my bags, when I was one of the only people left, but then I realised that my bag had been pulled off the conveyor and put somewhere else. Was a bit worried for a while. Paul.
You’ll be on your way to the airport now – hopefully they let you on with all that extra luggage you are carrying for me. Paul.
Hi Inna, Did Tim have any problems at airport with excess luggage ? How much did his bags weigh? Paul
Hi Max and Judy – Yes, I’ll be very patient. I think that is one of the keys to climbing this mountain safely. Paul
Hi Paul,
I’ve just started wearing glasses. Long sighted, I need them for driving so i’d say it wound be a slight advantage to wear them climbing. What do you do with yours? Goggles for over glasses, no glasses, contacts??? Its very cool being able to share your climb. Good climbing. Craig
Hi Paul
Your description of Kathmandu is starting to bring it all back again! Had a great dinner here tonight with Fiona, Beck and Dame and now have just got back from the airport after dropping Dame off. He got through with all the luggage and no problems. Last we saw of him was a wave as he went through the doors!!
Did you go to Rumdoodle? Did you find Fiona’s “footprint”?
lol
Dad and Mare
Dear Paul,
Glad you have arrived safely with all your luggage:) that means a big difference – having everything what you need:) your posts are great – even you mentioned you met Attila, good to hear he made it to Kathmandu:) finally i have sorted out every single problem with is website and now it is up and running:) http://www.projectb.hu/everest (due to there is an other Hungarian expedition this spring which is trying to climb Everest:)
Keep writing – reading your post (and other climbers here as well) is one of the highlights of my day:) Hope Attila can set up his PDA and satellit communication and can start write his dispatches. Cannot wait:)
I also referring to your site on his site – myeverest.com is gonna be well-known – but I guess this is well-known already;) but brings more European visitors – you will get such a lot of questions/msgs after all 🙂
Would love to hear anything about the environment (for us I guess nothing is commonplace..:) Maybe you will find this quite strange but there is some concern about Kathmandu and its area regarding to the increasing level of air pollution… Is it true? Also if you have time please write some lines about your experience how is the effect of the climbing expeditions on the Himalayan environment. Hearing a lot of different and worring things as more and more climbers begun to climb Everest but also I guess this flood of visitors brought some advantages (infrastructure,etc.) to Sherpa communities.
Crossing fingers to go through the whole permitting process smoothly – let us know.
Best
Mira
Hi Dame, Paul and Tim (I think he is there!?)
I guess you have arrived at the first leg of your journey. I bet you are all getting pretty excited about things at this point! I wish you all well for the trek to base camp and will follow the progress along the way. Enjoy!!!
Paul White (Damiens friend)
Thanks for your message. I have arrived safe and well and spent the day gear shopping. We head off for the base camp trek on Tuesday so not long to go. I now own gear that would keep you warm on the coldest, most windy day Warrnambool or Ballarat could ever muster.
Dame