Local time: 3 May, 18:45
Location: Camp 1
Altitude: 6100m
Weather: Windy in the morning, then snow in the afternoon. -8C overnight
Hi it’s Paul coming to you from a reasonably warm camp 1. After the snow of yesterday we weren’t sure if we would go up today, but not much fell overnight, so we decided to try. And it was a good decision as we got through safely.
Meagan, Atilla and I got a early start, finishing breakfast at 5am and leaving a little after. The temperature wasn’t too cold when we started out – it was down jacket weather, but not big gloves. However when we got to the crampon point at the base of the icefall, there was a strong breeze coming over the Lho La, a pass to Tibet, near the icefall. Well the breeze picked up and pretty soon I was worried about getting frostbite on my nose. The psolar mask is good for protecting my nose, but it fogs my glasses up when I wear it when I climb, even though I have these anti fog inserts that are meant to prevent this. Anyway, I put up with fogged up glasses and stumbled on, as the wind was really whipping up the snow and driving it into our faces. This continued for about an hour as we climbed higher. When we got halfway up the icefall, the wind died out and we were able to enjoy the climbing a lot more.
The state of the icefall
The icefall is still dangerous, although a large section had collapsed since we were last through. However it didn’t seem that any dangerous parts had disappeared. The tunnel is still there, and it feels a little like when they go through the gates in the movie Never Ending Story. You don’t know if it’s going to strike you down.
Bumped into Pat again
At the top of the icefall I met Pat Hickey again, barely 100m from where I passed him heading up when we were going down. He’s in great shape, and looking the same as when I saw him in Kathmandu over a month ago.
I pulled into base camp at 9:30, with Meagan ahead and Atilla slightly behind. Once the sun hits us we race quickly to the camp to get out of the heat. We were happy with our improvement over last time, although we didn’t push ourselves very hard, took lots of pictures. Our main goal was to get to the top of the icefall before the sun hits at about 8:30.
We are settled into camp, and have had a nice afternoon snack of salami and cheeses – Tim bought me some cheese from Vermont in the US and the salami I bought from Australia. It was Hungarian salami from Australia, and Atilla said it was not too bad. Atilla bought some Camembert which we also enjoyed.
Your Messages
Hi Jennifer, If you go back through my updates you can see that the Sherpa died in a small avalanche coming off the base of the Lhotse face.
Hi Paula, I was pretty amazed when Ptemba assigned me another Sherpa as I don’t need too much help on this trip. He said that we are 3 of us and that we should have 2 Sherpas with us. My concern with Lhakpa is that he won’t stay down long enough to get fully better. I explained that it will be two weeks before we move up again, so take the time. He said that he doesn’t need to go up to C3, so hopefully that’s right.
Hi Mira, I hope that TA doesn’t feel pressured to leave. There is still plenty of time as it’s only the start of May and her expedition should run until the end of May. She could easily do like what Lhakpa is doing.
Hi Ken, I am on the next rotation right now. Conditions are similar, however the icefall route is much more dangerous.
Regards,
Paul.
Paul, I happened upon yours and your wife’s 2006 climb a couple days ago. Once I started reading the daily journals, I could not stop. Finished the whole thing last night.
It is awesome that you are back again this year. Amazing.
This has to be a very spiritual experience. It comes through in the daily accounts.
I am pulling for you and praying for the safety of all the team.
Rick Morrison, Dallas Texas
hey paul how r u doing, this is jennifer from Q.E.C.V.I, i am writing to you cuzi am wondering if u are at camp 3 and what does camp3 look like and is it a very cold place????
from your friend from Q.E.C.V.I jennifer
P.S. please write back
Hi there…
Lhakpa connected with me yesterday. He is going to see a doctor today. Says he feels very strong and is looking for a speedy recovery with his throat…still had no voice. Great of Ptemba to resource the Sherpas that way. BTW, please tell him “hello” from both Yangji (apa’s wife) and me. She has become a daily reader of your blog, too. Once again thanks for such thorough and dedicated reporting, Paul, you’re the best…i especially appreciate it because i know how slow the fingers work up there. 🙂 thanks again. p.
hey paul it’s jennifer from Q.E.C.V.I i was wondering if u know how that sherpa died was it because he got buried in an avalanch, i am still following you i still want to say good luck.
from you friend Q.E.C.V.I jennifer.
P.S. hope u are having fun
Hi Paul
Glad you made it through the Icefall safely. I share your concerns just from what I’ve read but hopefully the Ice Doctors will stay on top of it. Maintenance is obviously very important.
Wishing you strength as you make your way to C-2 and then on to C-3. You are an inspiration, Paul! Btw, I LOVE the pic Pat Hickey posted on his site of the two of you. It is a great photo!
MC
“Be the inspiration that you seek from others.” mc
hey paul it’s jennifer from Q.E.C.V.I how are you so far and are you having fun climnbing mount everest
from your friend from Q.E.C.V.I jennifer
P.S. hope you write back
What a great pic Pat Hickey posted on his site about both of you!:) keep smiling!:)
Paul, I am not sure Attila got my msg yesterday, could you please do me a favour and let him know that he was down to around 30 min of call time left (updated data on 2 May) Should our contact by the overseas company refill it? Please let the guy (or me) know it.
Btw, are you still carrying your GPS logger up the mountain?
Thanks a lot, Mira
well done on another safe climb.all the best today as you head to c2. salami &cheese at 6100 mts, sounds pretty ‘civilised’ to me.. ‘regards [ken.nz]