Hi all,
Fiona here, now back in Kathmandu after our short but fantastic trip through Tibet.
Touring Tibet
As this trip was not planned, we hadn’t done any research on what Tibet would be like and so didn’t really know what to expect. I won’t bore you with all the details of the trip but there were many highlights and many unexpected moments.
We were in a tour with 20 or so people – spread across two mini-buses. The group was a mixed bunch from the UK, Netherlands, Germany, France, South Africa, Israel, Japan, Canada and Australia (others aside from us). Over the 7 days we got to know most of them pretty well and thoroughly enjoyed discovering the sights of Tibet with them and particularly sharing some great evenings together. We were also pleased to have a Tibetan guide.
Mount Everest Views
Seeing Mt Everest from the North side as we drove and also from the flight back from Lhasa today was obviously of great interest to both of us. Paul had his nose pinned up against the window during most of the flight waiting to spot it and we were pleased to find that we flew relatively close to it. Even from the sky, it looks massive and clearly stands above all the other surrounding mountains. Looking at it like this, neither of can really believe that we we’ve been lucky enough to stand on the summit.
The Tibetan Landscape
The countryside of Tibet was also amazing. Mostly the areas we saw were mountainous and very dry. For a few hours we even found ourselves bouncing through sand dunes that could have been in the Sahara. Just as we started marveling at how a mini-bus could avoid getting stuck in the sand, the inevitable happened and we hit a deep spot and found ourselves bogged. After a fair bit of digging and the force of most of us pushing from the front as the driver attempted to reverse, we managed to back up and take another approach. This happened a couple of times but all were in good spirits and it didn’t take too long to get ourselves moving again.
The Unexpected
The next day some of the group were leaving for an extended tour and the rest of us were now traveling in one mini-bus and one 4WD. Paul and I ended up in the 4WD but after lunch, we had another unexpected wait. First the driver stopped in town to make and then wait for a phone call, and then it turned out that the 4WD and guide was needed back with the other group so we turned around and drove until we met the other mini-bus met us and we all jumped out, moved our bags and started back in our original direction. This seems to be the Tibetan way and I think it was good that we went into the trip without too many expectations.
The Tibetan Culture
During our stay, we stopped along the way at many tiny villages where the people live an extremely simple life. Most of the areas we saw were farmed but a lot of Tibetans also lead a nomadic life style – moving sheep and goats around with the seasons. While we were there it was very mild, but in winter it would be bitterly cold as its quite high in elevation (3000 – 5000 metres in most parts).
We visited several large and important monasteries, as well as the Polatala Palace in Lhasa, where the Dalai Lama used to reside. We tried our best to understand how the various Buddas, gods, lamas, kings, advisors, and various other mystical figures fit together but the relationships seem extremely complex. Despite having a Tibetan guide (the new guide was also Tibetan), often the language barrier prevented us from getting a thorough understanding of the Tibetan background. In the Potala Palace we saw amazing statues, some adorned with over three and a half tons of gold.
Everywhere we went we were pushed aside by locals clambering to get close to the various images and monuments so that they could pour additional yak milk butter into the candle lanterns and press their money into the enclosure. Several times we saw the monks literally sweeping the money up with a broom. These people are so poor, yet they clearly donate so much money to the monastaries. Outside the monasteries we always saw lots of people walking clockwise around them (completing a kora) or prostrating (a form of prayer which involves repeatedly lying face-down either in front of the monastery, or very slowly making your way around it). For the most part the people, and especially the monks, all appear to be very happy, friendly people.
We found it interesting as well that the time zone is 2 hours and 15 minutes ahead of that of Nepal, despite being roughly the same longitude. This means that it doesn’t get dark until around 9pm and people seem to eat dinner around then, and rise quite late.
There’s lots more I could write but I guess these were our most striking impressions. All in all it was a great trip and we were very glad to get a glimpse of this unique place.
Home Soon!
While we’ve enjoyed our extended stay, we’re happy to say that we finally fly out of here tomorrow and are scheduled to land back home in Melbourne around midday on Monday. For those of you back at home, we’re very much looking forward to seeing you sometime soon.
All the best,
Fiona
Jill, Dallas, TX
Fiona,
Thanks for taking the time to give us this report from your trip into Tibet. It sounds very interesting. I’m not sure it would be for me, however.
I know you and Paul are eager to get home and your friends and family are eager to have you back in Melbourne. It seems that your family members are just very close and that there is a lot of love there. What a gift!
It would be wonderful to continue to follow you two since we feel like we know you now. If you are planning to write a book or if you tour the U.S. speaking it would be wonderful to know that so we would have something else to look forward to. I think you have quite a following now and to just quit communicating with us now is almost as bad as getting dumped by a girlfriend/boyfriend! Okay, I am unabashingly pleading for continuing communication – maybe at first once a week, then to once a month, and gradually “wean” us (smile). Jill
What a great photograph. Thanks for sharing Fiona and Paul and safe trip home. Nice work to arrive back on a public holiday, the masses should be there to great you in force!
Hi Fiona and Paul
Sounds like a challenging but rewarding time in Tibet. Expect the unexpected rings true in this region.
The Dalai Lama is here in Australia atm from 7-11 June in Melb and then onto Sydney.
Hope you last days there are nice and you have time to catch up with Asian Trekking re maps, permits, accessibility and their thoughts/feedback of the TAR
Cheers
Roger
Thanks, Fiona, for your Tibetan Travelogue complete with photos. Am just curious if you and Paul have read the book, Seven Years in Tibet. Sounds like the nomadic life style has remained the same (last 60 yrs) and too bad about the changes at the monasteries. Your advice to go to Tibet “sooner than later” is well taken. Yes, I am hoping as Jill is that you will keep us informed of the next episodes in your life–“gradually wean us” is a good way to put it!
THANKS AGAIN to you and Paul for sharing your adventures, always keeping us on the inside track. All the best on your trip HOME!
Dena
hope this finds you safely back home!sounds like your time in tibet was a great way to end your amazing ”adventure”. kind regards. [ken.nz]
Have a safe trip home Fiona and Paul. You have had an amazing journey and thank-you so much for sharing it with us.
Glenda.
Hi Fiona and Paul,
The photos are wonderful! Thanks for the interesting descriptions of your trip to Tibet, we really loved reading it. Glad the bus didnt get permanently stuck!
Ann and Graham
Don’t think there was too much political tension beyond Lord Mayor John So (who comes from Hong Kong originally) snubbing the Dalai Lama and not meeting with him at an official welcome to Melbourne. Bu thten maybe that’s enough to count?!
Paul to follow you via the web allowed my Outdoor Ed kids to really understand the processes and logistics invloved in climbing Mt Everest! My year 11 Outdoor Education class have watched all of the “Everest Climbers” on this site (my everest) take on the challenges of tackling the worlds highest peak. I set them a task prior to the climb season to be able to identify a “climber” and follow their progress. I had set the class a number of key questions that required them to interpret the many experiences and emotions that occur as part of the “Everest” psyche. My class thoughly enjoyed the dispatches from all of you on my everest. The results that they obtained were very pleasing. I saw them develop a really deep understanding of why it is people climb such a challenging mountain!.
Ever since I had my first class sit in front of a computer back in 1996 when Rob Hall & Scott Fisher’s expeditions were going horribly wrong, I have tried to immerse my classes in the Everest experience. To vicariously take on the mountain so to speak through all of you. Thanks again Paul (& Fiona) for a wonderful account of the climb that you undertook.
All the Best
Steve B
Victoria
Australia
Hey Paul and Fiona-
That was a well done commentary on your trip! My mom and I got a good impression of Tibet from you guys, cause we also didnt really know much about how it is there. Nice Photo of the baby too! We hope your flight goes ok and give all the family a g’day from us. I had a friend I met when I was in Melbourne come to Florida to visit. I told her all about my trip and Paul’s summit. I think her mum will be following the website as well as the news soon…. Well I’m off to be a counselor at a Jewish Camp, similar to what Lou did. It’s in North Carolina where there’s alot more mountain landscapes than Florida so all that trekking gear will come handy! Hope we still keep in touch even though we wont be following around your lives everyday. Cheers
Love, Julia and Tamara
Welcome home! We saw on you the news the other night and you both look the picture of health!
We enjoyed your update on Tibet very much and glad you had a tibetan guide. Very sad about all the statues in the monasteries, mostly all destroyed by the chinese, monasteries bombed and buddha statues having their hearts ripped out or decapitated. All buddhist scriptures burnt in monasteries and valuable precious stones placed inside the statues robbed. Luckily however scriptures were taken to India during the revolution so Tibetan buddhism is preserved.
Anyway thank you for your stories.
Sonam & Rebecca & Lhamo
Forgot to add
What camera have you been using, your photos seem so clear and have good zoom.
Thanks Sonam