Hi everyone,
Fiona here in Kathmandu – still!
Scouts Press Conference
Last night we were invited to a press conference that the Yorkshire Scouts were holding to officially announce their successful ascent of Mt Everest. They were climbing with a separate Asian Trekking group but were camped just near us so we knew a few of them reasonably well. We went along to support them and also out of curiosity to see how this sort of event ran. We were surprised to find that around 100 people were there – other climbers, reporters, friends and families of climbers, many past and present climbing Sherpas, government representatives, and Nepalese Scouts. The Scouts had prepared a professional presentation describing their preparations, the Centenial Scouts celebration, the community work that they have done in the region, and of course, their actual climb.
An Unexpected Presentation
More surprising was that after their presentation, the head of Asian Trekking also called up Paul and Dawa to receive their official summit certificates. This was fantastic for Paul to be able to receive this while we are here (otherwise they take several months in the mail).
We were all treated to a banquet dinner (yes, all 100 or so of us!) and Paul was even more surprised to find himself sitting next to an elderly Sherpa who climbed in the 1952 Spring Swiss expedition on Everest under the sirdar Tenzing Norgay. (For those that don’t know, in 1956, Tenzing went on to summit Everest for the first time ever with Sir Edmund Hilary.) Paul has read extensively on the Swiss expeditions which broke significant ground on Everest but were ultimately unsuccessful in reaching the summit – so he was extremely honoured to meet and talk with one of the legends from this era.
Heading to Tibet Tomorrow
Early tomorrow morning we leave Kathmandu for our trip through Tibet. Not really sure what to expect as we’ve heard mixed reports but we’re really looking forward to seeing another country and culture.
This will be our last update for a week or so as we’re not taking our communications gear with us and don’t expect to be in the vicinity of internet cafes. Depending on what time we get back here, we may update before leaving Kathmandu on the 10th, otherwise, next time will be from home (on or after the 11th).
That’s all for now. Hope everyone out there is well.
Fiona
Nice photo with Popou Paul! The pose looks similar to Ang Nima and his mom.
right, fiona?? I guess all Sherpas pose the same way… and now you’ve showed us your certificate so we know you’ve really done it. I’ll miss your updates. Now that I’m home and doing nothing- It was something to look forward to everyday. Have fun In Tibet! – Julia
the local culture and Mt. Everest community within Katmandu which you’ve experienced of late and deservedly so.
Congratulations Paul for having received your Summit Certificate in a public ceremony, a testimony to the affection and respect your climbs and presence have created within the Katmandu community. Thank you both greatly for providing the continuing informative narrative and fine photographs as your adventure unfolds.
I Hope that your visit to Tibet goes very well and look forward to your observations and impressions of the Tibetan region of the Himalya.
Safe Journeys Paul and Fiona…
WP
it’s hot salty butter and water – not like neplese chai at ALL!!!
What a nice end to the climbing season, receiving your certificate Paul. A few of us will be keen to check it out when you are back. Arlie has just found out that her boyfriend’s grandmother sewed the tents for the Tenzing/Hillary expedition in 1953 and that his great uncle was on the expedition! We’re keen to find out more. Lat night Gavan & I went to Cirque de Soleil and saw some amazing acrobatics. We were in the third row and had performers flying over our heads. It was quite breathtaking. Meanwhile, enjoy your time in Tibet and I look forward to more travellers tales later. cheers, Liz.
It is great to see your smile from ear to ear and Fiona looking so happy, proud and relaxed. Will hate having this end as it is wonderful to check in and follow your expedition. You both write so well and I hope there will be a book in the future. You just need to fill in and edit and your done. Also happy to see you connect with the older sherpa. I read Tenzing Norgay’s sons book this last year and it was very interresting. Thanks so much for all your postings and sharing of your journey. I am also greatly relieved that you don’t have to go back again!
Anne P
Venice FL
Hi Paul I heard that you are
going Tibet tomorrow and
just saying I went some were
in Tibet on 2005
Kizza
hi
i am nirakar joshi , am an architect and i found u an interesting person. u have such kind of adventure in your life i wan to see you and your passion.
sincerely
nirakar
nirakar66@yahoo.com
nepal
+9779841302751
just curious what paul you think bout China’s idea of building a “highway” from the northern side of everest into base camp just for the relay torch for the olympics ? doesnt that sound crazy/ madness to destroy the area going into base camp or even think of building such a thing in such a delicate area?..what next an escalator to the top of everest ?
ps
congrats on reaching the top ! urself and fi should be both congratulated for your efforts on achieving your goals. well done.
kade h
victoria, aust
Hi Kade, I read about that story, but it didn’t make sense because there already is a reasonably good road to Everest base camp on the North side. Climbers and visitors drive there every year. Perhaps they mean that they are making the road better? The road from the Nepalese border to Tingri in Tibet is in poor condition, but they were doing a lot of roadworks to improve bridges, widen roads and seal them with asphalt.
It’s a pity that China has sought to destroy the Buddist culture and earned such a negative reputation overseas, because otherwise a lot of what they are doing seems to be improving the lives of the Tibetans. And this was my impression, not propaganda that we were given. I saw schools, medical facilities, roads, irrigation, electricity & farming machinery. All these things are changing the country forever and already I would imagine that the country isn’t recognizable from even just 20 years ago. But it’s not fair for us to have these luxuries and for them to have to stick to doing things the old way.
China should reconcile with the Dalai Lama and let him return to the country, remove the restrictions limiting the numbers monks and let them practice unfettered, and return the Panchun Lama if he is still alive. Then I think that a lot of the criticism from the rest of the world would cease. Part of the issue is that for centuries the Dalai Lama was the head of state and not just a religious figurehead (I think the 5th Dalai Lama overthrew the King of Tibet), so there is this issue to overcome. But almost all other countries have achieved a separation of religion and state, so it should be possible.
Just my two cents! Paul.
Sounds like a great solution…Why can politicians never think that simple and clear.
Hi Paul
Scratch the surface and you will see differently to what is still happening in Tibet. Tibet has been given 15 years and then my culture will be lost forever. Human genocide is going on, whether on purpose or not, but tibetan language and culture is not being taught in schools, Tibet is slowly being mould into chinese yet we are 2 completely different cultures and language. Alot has been happening in tibet for the olympics as china is under pressure for human rights etc especially looking at tibet, so its all about cosmetics to make china look good. Tibet is Tibet, and basically our people dont want to change, we like it how we were, but to change our own way. Now we have a huge problem living in exile in India, increasing numbers everyday, because nothing is changing for our people in Tibet. Look at the numbers of Tibetans in prison for being Tibetan, I wouldnt say china is helping Tibet at all, infact its killing us slowly. There is a good documentary called “Cry of the Snowlion” if interested. Ahhhh sorry Paul for getting deep, but I feel very passionate about my country, and the suffering my family still goes through living in Tibet and the stories everyweek and published about my people being murdered and torchured etc. its not about religion, its about culture. Om mani Padme Hum Om mani padme Hum Om mani Padme Hum.
Hi Topgyal,
Thanks for writing. It’s hard for me to comment beyond what you rightly called scratching the surface, because that’s all we did (if that!). There is no doubt that the culture is being completely eroded and that’s what Fiona was getting at when she wrote that “If you wish to visit Tibet, I would recommend visiting sooner rather than later.” A few times we got off the main roads to visit people or to see a particular site and we passed through some very poor villages. These were much more authentic and much better to see as a tourist than the heavily Chinese influenced places like Tingri and Shigatse. However I couldn’t help wondering who had a better standard of living – the old way or the new? I guess I don’t know and of course people should be free to live as they please (it is evident that they are not free, or else there would be no need for all the military check points), but I suppose I was surprised to see some of the improvements being made, presumably by the Chinese. Schools with lots of kids running around in school uniform, plenty of food available for sale, lots of crops growing in the fields and people seemingly engaged in meaningful work. There appeared to be a lot more machinery being used for farming in Tibet than in Nepal. This is not the traditional way, and maybe it was thrust upon them by the Chinese in order to produce more output, but I am sure that the Nepalese, given the choice, would prefer to use a tractor to plough their fields than to do it by hand or with a buffalo, and would like to have better access to education.
My point was that the Chinese need to work out a better way of dealing with the people and running the country. I am not sure if Tibet would generate much net income for China – given what they appeared to be spending in public works, I would think not. At the moment the Autonomous Region of Tibet doesn’t seem very autonomous and as a start they need to create an environment where there could be some more self government. Patching up relations with the Dalai Lama and letting him return might be a good start. And then some form of local governance could then lead onto larger things.
Paul